Barts Best of: Crete, Greece (spoiler alert: we are fans)
besides the facts that Crete is, without a doubt, the largest Greek island and also one of the most visited (for a number of good reasons: sun, sea, beach, Greek villages, food and much, much more), is Crete just damn beautiful. May be said. Green, varied, very Greek and also very 'Western' (you know what we mean). In short: we - and a lot of people with us - love'and Crete.
Where we do distinguish ourselves from the rest of the hordes of Crete visitors is that we are especially fond of the secret places that are still undiscovered by most. Tips from locals, the real ones hidden gems, and here you can read them:
A bakery where the lines stretch outside, and once you're inside, you understand why. Red Jane is located in an old foundry from the 1930s in Chania, converted into one of the most beautiful bakeries in Crete. The interior was designed by Michael Anastassiades, the man behind those beautiful designer lamps, and it shows: red marble walls, custom-made tiles, and large windows overlooking the bakery behind. So, it's a place to look and eat.
And that food. Croissants that are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, filled with almond cream and blueberries. Cabbage with caramel and saffron. Greek almond balls made with goat butter, generously filled with roasted almonds and dusted with powdered sugar. A savory variation with puff pastry Filled with feta, graviera, and mizithra. And bread – lots of delicious bread. Don't come hungry, because you will leave with much more than you intended.
Many people choose a hotel on the coast. It makes sense; you often come for the sea. But do yourself a favor and spend a few nights in the interior of Crete. A totally different world. No tourists, no beach club, though, deserted mountain roads, small villages, wild goats that just cross the road, and restaurants where the owner is also the cook.
Samonas Traditional Villas is exactly such a place: an old farmhouse converted into comfortable accommodation, nestled in the hills. The furniture is handmade, the linens embroidered, and the duvets down. In the evenings, the fireplace is burning, and in the mornings, you enjoy a local breakfast that is fresher than fresh. The swimming pool overlooks both the mountains and the sea at the same time, which is actually unfairly beautiful. And for those wishing to explore the surroundings: electric mountain bikes are available.
How to get to Crete? Get your plane tickets now!
Greece is known for its beautiful colors. That typical deep blue and pure white. Instantly evokes that holiday mood, right? Heading to Crete to chase that beautiful color combination? Before you book, first knock on the digital doors of ByJuneThey have unique, small-scale accommodations that are truly exceptional, including on Crete. One such accommodation is Salt Suite. This hotel is situated on the bay of Agia Pelagia. Every morning, with just one foot out of bed, you immediately see the blue water sparkling. It turns out: those cliché Greek colors aren't actually that crazy, and Salt Suites capitalizes on that nicely. The interior features, you guessed it, the colors of the sea and the beach. Here read everything we thought of Salt Suites (and yes, that was particularly positive)
The rooms are minimalistically decorated, which provides a tidy yet attractive environment. Delicious boho vibes all around. Each room has its own private terrace, so you can enjoy the morning sun or afternoon sun in peace and freedom. With a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, you can choose.
Because let's face it, you go on holiday to relax. And Salt Suite is also certified in this. Their goal? Creating a holiday with great comfort and luxury. And they do this through high-quality service and plenty of (luxury) facilities. Because to be honest, it is really nice to be able to slip into a bubble bath with a glass of wine and a view of Agia Pelagia during your holiday.
Let's take a quick look at the area, because what a beautiful nature Greece is. Tropical and exotic, with white beaches and crystal clear sea. There is plenty for the lazy people, but for the more active holidaymakers among us there is also plenty to do. There is a choice of many hiking trails through the mountains, where you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view after a brisk walk.
A luxury home away from home. That is Royal Blue Resort & Spa. The residence is located in a breathtaking location and exudes a serene atmosphere. A place where you don't have to do anything, but everything is possible. Easy peasy. Here you imagine yourself in a mix of typical Celtic elements and modern Design and that gives a spectacular sight. And… The kids are also very welcome and will certainly be grateful that they can come along. But... You can also pamper yourself with a beauty treatment in the spa. Sounds good. Time for some well deserved me time we say then.
Ultimate relaxation in an amazing resort? Sounds like a great idea, doesn't it? At Domes Zeen Chania, you will experience bohemian luxury at its best. The resort's accommodations are designed for couples and families. And you will also find two villas there. The rooms are styled minimalistically - with natural materials and earthy tones - so you can truly relax in the room. Let alone take a dip in the pool or enjoy the magnificent view! With the kids it is also a great place, See our favorites for Greece with kids here.
Villa Ippocampi on beautiful Crete is a place to dream away. Oh so beautiful and far away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Lydia and Nikos built Villa Ippocampi themselves and receive their guests so warmly that this is an address where you want to return again and again. There are eleven apartments and two penthouse suites at Villa Ippocampi; all equally comfortable and furnished with a perfect sense of style. And it is really relaxing, because Ippocampi is adult only.
The largest island of the entire (countless) Greek bunch and the largest was also our stay at The Royal Senses. What a wonderful spot! Where to start... As always, at the beginning: whoever books, can immediately expect (at least we can) all the help you can think of. Do you want a transfer? Consider it done. Request numbers regarding your room? It's already arranged. Other questions? You call, The Royal Senses Hotel in Crete is running. And then the party can begin: the resort is brand new and it is wonderful to walk through such an untouched paradise. Paradise. Yes. A sleek and spacious paradise to be precise. The hotel is made up of sleek blocks, straight lines and the occasional palm tree, decorated with beautiful, warm-toned art, bright blue colors everywhere, both in the water and the sky above the hotel and in the expansive and unmissable swimming pool. As if you were walking through the architect's drawing. That's not unpleasant, by the way! Well no. The good-natured staff will take care of that. The Royal Senses Resort on Crete
Evgonia: Order fish and chips 'Crete style': whole grilled cod, chunky chips fried in olive oil and the crispy house salad. Located in a residential area and you eat there with the locals for a fraction of what you would pay on the waterfront.
Salis: This restaurant on the harbor is a nice one! The seasonal menu of sommelier and chef Afshin Molavi is made from ingredients from their own organic orchards.
Ginger concept: The hip one of the bunch, in a good way. Perfect for brunch, one spritzer in the early evening or a relaxed dinner, this Bali-inspired bistro on a pedestrian street in Chania's Splantzia district. There's nothing traditional about the pick-and-mix menu or the interior (rattan armchairs, retro tiles, Amazonian headdresses). Good to know: Renata Leitão, the glamorous Brazilian owner, is also behind Just Brazil, known to be as the best boutique in town.
In the northwest of Crete, you'll find the incredibly vibrant city of Chania, nestled amidst a rugged wilderness of rocky ravines, not far from numerous beautiful beaches. The fantastic, cheerful (can you say that about a hotel? We think so!) Ammos Hotel isn't located in the city itself, but it is right on the beach. You can practically jump into the sea from your room—a ten-pointer. The Ammos Hotel is a fresh, unpretentious, and exceptionally well-designed boutique hotel in Crete, Greece—one of the nicest/most beautiful we've ever seen. Wonderfully uncomplicated, yet incredibly beautiful, you might say. The interior isn't exactly Greek, but rather white, blue, and simple—so typical of any Greek island—but otherwise, the decor is very European and refined.
Gavdos is a small island of 30 km² located 36 kilometers south of Crete, the southernmost point of Europe, closer to Africa than to Athens. It is accessible by boat from Paleochora or Chora Sfakion; the crossing takes about three to four hours.
Once ashore, you will find peace, cedar and pine forests, and beautiful beaches. Agiannis Beach was once named the second most beautiful beach in the world by Discovery Channel – after a small beach in Hawaii. And that is not all, because Sarakiniko and Potamos are easier to reach and at least as beautiful. Beach bars exist in their most basic form: small tavernas, a cold drinks and a full view of the sea.
Good to know: withdrawing cash is not an option on this island and there are no large hotels. Book your accommodation well in advance, as availability is limited and once it's full, it's full. For example, at Gavdos Princess (with a restaurant under the pergola) or at the simple but charming Akrogiali, right by the sea.
In the heart of Heraklion, on Agios Titos Square, you will find Dish — an address locals know well and tourists should know. By day, a nice spot for Mediterranean and local food; by night, one of the city's liveliest bars. Greek music, an impressive whiskey en vodka selection and an atmosphere that effortlessly continues into the late hours. Exactly the kind of place where you walk in at nine for dinner and are still sitting there at midnight.
Periplous: Fresh seafood and pasta in the Tabakaria district in the east of the city.
Emilia's: A drive to the high-altitude hamlet of Zourva, in the foothills of the White Mountains, and you'll find this lunch spot with mountain views. Very authentic in terms of food: prepare for stewed goat, fried eggs in sheep's milk butter and fennel pie.
Milian: This is Crete's first eco-lodge and has been around since 1994, long before farm-to-table dining became fashionable. Everything served at this mountain retreat (once a seasonal home for chestnut farmers) is organic.
Taverna O'Drys: In the seedy village of Maza, in the White Mountains, this is one of those true hidden gems, recommended by a local and perfect for self-proclaimed foodies. There is no menu, just a few dishes of the day to enjoy under a sprawling bougainvillea. In the evenings, Kostas grills pork chops on a barbecue in the square and there is always Greek salad.
Chrisostomos: This taverna, also known as Dialiskari, is our favorite from this list: it is a 'beach bar' on a thatched terrace above a turquoise bay and can only be reached by boat or on foot. Warm bread, lamb, baked potatoes, courgettes and aubergines with a feta crust, all slowly cooked in a wood-fired oven.
Far from the coast, far from the tourist crowds hotspots Restaurant Ntounias, better known as Dounias, is situated high in the mountains near Chania, surrounded by olive groves and traditional village life. Chef Stelios Trilyrakis cooks here on his own farm, using ingredients from that same land: his own wine, his own olive oil, his own cheese, his own livestock—an ancient Cretan breed, for those interested. Anything that doesn't come from his own land comes from local farmers further afield.
But what really sets Ntounias apart is how Stelios cooks. No gas, no electricity, everything on wood. The ovens, the stoves, and many dishes even cooked outside in clay pots, a tradition that dates back thousands of years. The result is food that tastes the way food is supposed to taste. There are also workshops, you can visit the farm and are immediately welcomed into the Greek family here: Ntounias is not a restaurant you just pop into for a quick visit. Plan your time for it. Exactly the kind of place where you only realize after two hours that your phone is still in your pocket.
Small, painted red, and easy to miss — but don't. Swing Thing is located on one of Heraklion's most famous pedestrian streets and has been the city's premier cocktail bar since 2014. During the day, it is a nice spot for coffee and a snack, but it only really gets interesting when the sun goes down and the bar fills with locals and visitors who know where to go. The bartender knows exactly what he's doing — feel free to ask for advice, because the signature cocktails are seriously good. The piña colada with Greek yogurt has become a bit legendary by now. Sitting outside with a drink in unique glassware, good music in the background, and staff that makes you feel like you always came there. That is Swing Thing.
What a wonderful part of Crete: the south coast, seen on a map, approximately in the middle of the island. Here you will find a number of tourist beaches, but if you set your navigation correctly you will come to a small collection of three beaches that are less known and oh so.
The northernmost (and most touristy) is Plakias beach. A large and nice (family) beach with numerous interchangeable and therefore very pleasant holiday-style restaurants and bars.
If you drive a little further, you will come to it Ammoudi Beach. Good idea indeed. Here also a fairly wide (compared to most Greek bays) beach with nice beds and 3 or 4 restaurants, of which we Taverna Violakis 1967 found the best.
Drive straight ahead – yes, over that scary mountain pass – and you will come to the most special of the bunch: Damnoni Beach, a small (nude) beach with an authentic bar against a rock consisting of several plateaus equipped with cozy thatched parasols with – surprise because the outlet looks a bit like a shack – the most delicious, simple hamburgers: just right. Big tip.
Drive into the mountains for an authentic lunch or dinner Mariou restaurant. Authentic food and an amazing view!
If you follow the route that runs from Rethimnon (see below) to the south coast, and not the 'fast' but the 'beautiful' route, you will pass through truly beautiful mountain passes: an outing in itself (really!). Make sure you include the Argiroupoli waterfalls on your to do. A beautiful pit stop.
Just like Kourna Lake – a little more than a pit stop. The lake is surrounded by beautiful flora and fauna and you can easily spend an afternoon or day swimming and lounging around. A 'gem' that was tipped to us by locals and highly recommended.
If you want to do a bit of culture but don't feel like dealing with dusty Greek, you can do so Arkady Museum put on his to do. Or not, but at least we have also tipped you something cultural. Don't mention it.
The reason we had that museum on our to-do list is because it is located close to the picturesque village of Margarites, a super pretty and cozy hamlet known for its ceramics. Really nice (and we also bought a pair of typical Greek slippers for the whole family there).
By far the nicest restaurant we visited in Crete was CAVO Rethymnon. The white beach restaurant was a success on all fronts: the location above the raging sea on the edge of Rethimnon (I'll come back to that later), the fresh beach-style but different than usual design and the 'always good' (and really tasty) menu. Slightly hip but accessible. Recommended.
The restaurant is located on a kind of 'peninsula' of the city: a street just outside the center where you shouldn't go if you haven't heard of it. A shame because it is a masterpiece of Crete! CAVO is right next door Prima Plora Organic Restaurant & Wine Barand that is possibly an equally good tip: the restaurant consists of four parts, but the best place is to sit on the water and the food (especially the sushi!) is really fantastic.
A little further (which is actually towards the center, we started 'at the back'). 7 Thalasses Restaurant, a hotel restaurant that is a bit more classic, but which, thanks to its location by the sea and the sweet, correct service, is also a very nice one.
At the harbour. Among the restaurants where the props are flying around your ears (no no no no!) there is also – surprise – restaurant Fraoules and that is therefore highly recommended. Delicious food and a sommelier who knows his Pappenheimers.
Do you want a hip café with instagrammable soft green shutters? On to the corner building that bears the name Nafpigio wears. Just fun and perfect for a beer and a dance move.
In the old town you stroll through the old street and find numerous shops Hasika restaurant ends. A contemporary business with contemporary Greek 'tapas'.
A bit outside the center, in the other direction than COVA, so to speak, BORA BORA is, in our opinion, the nicest and most relaxed beach bar in the area. the hood. Delicious beach style food, not too loud music and just very well done. The same owners run it just down the road KAI Seaside Flavors. ALSO nice, but we like BORA BORA better.
Coffee? Anyone? And a sandwich? Plus worth driving around for? On to MATT CAFE.
Surrounded by beautiful surroundings and vineyards you will experience a real experience wine tasting with the Lyrarakis family in the small village of Alagni (when we say 'among the locals', we mean it). Slip to the back of the line for the tour of the open-air museum, where you will learn all about wine and their own winery and end this tour with a delicious picnic. Including a wine from the own winery, because that's what you did it for! And it doesn't taste better anywhere else.
Chersonissos? Sorry? Say what? Yeah! Chersonissos! But not the famous resort town, mind you (or actually, it is…): near the famous Chersonissos, you’ll also find the Chersonissos Piskopiano district. And there, you won’t feel any of the Barbies of this world. In fact, we think it’s one of the nicest and most beautiful parts of Crete. It’s quite possible that you’ll fly into Heraklion when you go to Crete. Most of the tips on this list focus on the west and south of this city, but if you drive just under 20 minutes to the east, you’ll arrive here. And 'here' you’ll find the cozy linear village of Piskopiano, where it’s simply wonderful to vacation and where you trip over restaurants. We stayed at the hotel. Blue House (very nice, very neat, nice place just outside the hustle and bustle, mega (megamegamega) sweet staff) and had a delicious meal at Nikos The Fisherman.
But the main reason to stay here is the 7-minute drive to Sarantari Beach. A perfect, small, and super quiet (quite unknown) beach where the Saradari Restaurant is also located. And Sarantari Restaurant is a must!
Small but nice: Plaka Village. With a beautiful view over Spinalonga, you can take a lovely walk through Plaka Village, where you will find nice restaurants and shops on the harbor to your left and right. And if you really like the view over Spinalonga (that's true, fact over opinion), you can also visit the island, as there is a boat from Plaka to the island every half hour.
When in Crete there is nothing else to do but a round on the SUP. Please? You know, a surfboard on which you can enjoy some rays of sunshine while paddling through the water (note, rub in is more important than ever!). And you prefer to do your SUP at the Bay of Saradis. Why that exactly there? Beautiful sea, beautiful bay and beautiful water where the waves are not too high (important for a novice supper). The photo below says it all. And then enjoy a well-deserved and delicious cocktail with a beautiful view over the bay. What more could you want? More Crete of course, we have more…
Let's swim! To do this, we head to Voulisma Beach, also known as the 'Golden Beach', and we understand why... You park the car and walk down a staircase onto the bright beach, where you can rent sun loungers with a parasol. . And that is and remains an advantage. Mind you, it is a bit stony at the end, but luckily this is compensated by the beautiful blue water where you can take a dip.
Don't you want to spend the entire holiday on the beach? We really understand that. Then rent a sailing boat with a captain for a day (highly recommended: this is how you live the Greek dream at its best) or go hiking or mountain biking with a unique view and spot real Greek wildlife. Everything is possible in Crete.
