Episode 3: Barts Babbels the podcast, Demi's Lisbon tips
Demi Passier once packed her suitcase for a month-long vacation in Lisbon and never returned to Bali. Her cleaner packed her boxes there, and a month later her belongings were in Portugal. In episode 3 of Barts Babbels the podcast, our very own digital nomad tells us all about her new home: from a tasca with fluorescent lighting where Lisboners queue to a catamaran full of wine sailing along the bays of Arrábida. Here are all the tips from the episode about Lisbon and the rest of Portugal, neatly listed.
Episode 3: Barts Babbels the podcast, Demi's Lisbon tips. Listen to the entire episode here.
Never been, but already good
DOMA (Gradil): on a wooded estate in Gradil, half an hour from Lisbon and close to the surf village of Ericeira. You sleep there, work in the coworking studios, and retreat to the ATMOS wellness area, with a sauna, steam bath, and ice bath. doma.pt
Classics: O Velho Eurico (Mouraria) on a small square in the old Mouraria district. Traditional Portuguese cuisine without frills. Pinocchio (Restauradores): Pinóquio is located right in the city center, looks anything but sexy, and has ordinary fluorescent lighting outside. Yet, people are queuing here for a table. That says it all. Taberna Os Papagaios (Arroios): The trendiest of Demi's three, a Portuguese taberna where the atmosphere is also nice. It is located next to the Mercado de Arroios. Cervejaria Ramiro (Intendente): Maartje's tip. Ramiro is located on the busy Avenida Almirante Reis, and as you drive past you think: is this it? Yes, this is it. There is always a line, and that line consists mainly of Portuguese people. Order the carabineiros, the large red prawns that you suck dry to the last drop, head and all.
When are you going? September! The tourists are out of town, the locals are back, and the weather is still just as nice as in August. Maartje also hears a lot about June, and that is true: that is when the Lisboners celebrate Santos Populares, even in Demi's neighborhood. Long tables are set up everywhere in the street where you sit down with hundreds of people, neighbors drag their own barbecues outside for grilled fish, and there is dancing.
Underestimated: Campo de Ourique, a neighborhood not far from the center with super nice wine bars, coffee shops, and gyms. Marvila: The Amsterdam North of Lisbon, according to Demi. Industrial warehouses, rough edges, and a walk along the water. Tourists hardly come here, except for Duro de Matar, a hip taqueria just across the border in the neighboring district of Beato. If you continue walking north along the water, you arrive at the new Parque das Nações, with the Oceanário. Her advice: if you don't know Lisbon yet, don't stay in this corner, because it has nothing to do with the old city center. Do you know the city? Then it is a fantastic base.
For Demi, Príncipe Real is the beating heart of Lisbon, a bit like De Pijp: young, hip and Happening, with lots of wine bars.
Speaking of kiosks: you can find them all over Lisbon, and they are Demi's new go-to at the end of the day. Some are Next Level, with really good cocktails. Her favorite: Quiosque do Pipo. Do Pipo, easy to remember.
1. A day trip to Lisbon: Walking through the city, eating pastéis de nata, vintage shopping (Lisbon is full of it) and walking along the waterfront for the sunsetEnd with Java, a rooftop at Praça Dom Luís I at Cais do Sodré, with a view of the Tagus and the bridge.
2. Arrábida: For Demi, the most beautiful stretch of coast nearby is about a forty-minute drive from Lisbon. It is quite quiet there during the week, but a bit less so on weekends. Bring your towel, as you have to hike down to some of the small beaches.
If you want to go further inland, you have three options. The train: Demi went to Lagos for about 25 euros and is by the sea in just under four hours (with a transfer in Tunes). With a group of girlfriends, you rent a car, in the summer for as little as 25 euros a day. And then there is Bolt DriveIn the app, you can see where the cars are parked, pick one up at the last minute, and return it to the same spot afterwards.
Where do real Lisboners go on the weekend? Setúbal and Cascais, Maartje knows. Demi adds Sintra: we know it for the castles with their Harry Potter vibe, but there are also beautiful beaches and it is a great place to hiccup. Those who can afford it have a holiday home in the south to escape the summer. So in July and August, Lisbon empties out of locals and fills up with tourists.
- Costa da Caparica: The beach on the other side of the bridge, which is a short drive away. Colleague Madiana recommends it. Barracuda, for a happy hour with budget drinks. From Caparica, you can also easily get to Fonte da Telha, where Demi is at Noa works in the coworking space behind the beach, with a dip in the sea in between.
- Cascais: The luxury part of the coast near Lisbon. Bougain is a bit more chic and a real night out, in the garden of an old villa. For a cozy dinner, you go to Moules & Gin.
Maartje's road trip
First one or two days in Lisbon (with Demi's tips as a baptism of fire), then 45 minutes north to Ericeira. Back via Lisbon to Comporta, and from there south to Aljezur. Read also the best thing about Ericeira. Casa Quintas (Barril), B.Hostel (Brejos da Carregueira, Vale Palheiro Earth Resort (Aljezur) and Helder Farm Studios (São Teotónio).
Remote working in Lisbon
Demi works at Aethos Club in Penha de França, a members club where you also meet your friends and where events are on the program. Her gym Aimara Studio At 160 euros per month, it is not cheap, but you get a recovery room, yoga, and pilates included.
And one more tip: The Azores. Just over a two-hour flight from Lisbon lies what is also known as the Hawaii of Portugal, with the most beautiful hikes, rugged nature, and super cool hotels.
Pastel de nata: Demi's go-to is manteigaria. Although she thinks those of Pastel de Belém Actually tastier: crispier on the outside, softer on the inside, with a burnt crust. Belém is a ten-minute drive from the center and has a small harbor where you can stroll around in the evening with a view of the bridge.
Ponto Final (Cacilhas): The restaurant by the water across the Tagus, with the yellow tables on the pier. According to Demi, it is still great fun if you manage to get a table: book months in advance. Going without a reservation means waiting in line for three hours.
Farès: Not Portuguese, but one of Demi's favorite spots, on Rua de São Paulo at Cais do Sodré. A bit Lebanese, with very tasty chicken and hummus. You can sit nicely outside or inside, it's not expensive, and you don't need to make a reservation. On the same street sits Lupita, the trendy pizza place.
Bar Food: A bit hyped and everyone's favorite, but if you go once, do this one, says Demi. On Rua Nova da Piedade in São Bento.
Da Noi en Skizzo: Two restaurants from the same team, in Madragoa and Lapa, around the corner from Santos. Da Noi is Demi's favorite restaurant if you want to eat inside. You can also eat at the bar, which is very cozy.
Even more addresses? These are Our (food) hotspots in Lisbon.
