Castles in the Sand, Essaouira
When you think of Morocco, you most likely think of Marrakech. We totally get that, but… if you’re there anyway, really do consider making the drive (about 2 hours) to Essaouira. You won’t regret it. And if you want to make it even easier for yourself: you can also fly to Essaouira-Mogador Airport (ESU).
This Moroccan city lies on the Atlantic coast and we like to call it 'Marrakech for dummies'. It is cleaner, fresher, has an endlessly wide beach, and haggling in the souk is much easier. Even in winter, it is lovely with clear blue skies, sunshine, and a warm sea breeze. Once there, there is really only one absolute best option for your overnight stay: Castles in the sandAnd for at least three nights, because anything less would be a waste.
To start at the beginning: why do you want to go to Essaouira again? There are stories galore. Orson Welles filmed scenes here for his famous OthelloCat Stevens was deeply inspired by the sea air and Jimi Hendrix hung around in nearby Diabat. To name just a few famous names.
And then there is the rhythm of the coast. Every morning, the traditional blue fishing boats sail into the harbor. The catch is cleaned on the spot, sold, and thrown directly onto the open charcoal barbecue, with long tables where people constantly pull up a chair.
A stone's throw from that harbor, you will find the two guesthouses of Castles in the Sand: Dar Beida, the White House, and Dar Emma, the little hippie house. It is, without a doubt and hand on our heart, the best accommodation option in Essaouira, and with excellent value for money to boot.
Dar Beida (The White House) is a cool (literally and figuratively: the looks are spot on and thanks to the thick white walls, air conditioning isn't needed despite the heat outside) 200-year-old, traditional 'dar', a Moroccan house, with four bedrooms. Seventeenth-century stone arches, mid-century retro, and smooth, white-sculpted walls blend effortlessly. Now a true design icon, the house has appeared in countless coffee table books and in publications including The New York Times (which described it as a glowing pop art cave), Elle Decoration, The Times, and The Guardian, and regularly serves as a backdrop for fashion shoots and brand campaigns. Perfect for a family, a group of friends, or a creative escape. You will find Dar Beida at the back of the medina in an authentic Moroccan neighborhood, near Bab Doukkala, just a few minutes from the market.
The colorful Dar Emma (The Little Hippie House) It is a charming, small two-bedroom hippie house at the front of the medina. Decorated in a modern bohemian style, it is spread over four bright floors, with a multi-level roof terrace and a fireplace. A two-minute walk from the central square, Place Moulay Hassan, and close to all shops, restaurants, the historic city walls and, importantly, a stone's throw from the beach.
A major plus point at this location is the service. Besides the fact that everything looks beautiful and the cottages have everything your heart desires, hostess Emma takes care of just about everything for you. There is door-to-door transfer from the airport, an organic welcome basket from Bbio Farm (500 dh), and a home-cooked Moroccan welcome meal prepared by housekeeper Amina (300 dh pp).
There is a private beach hut at Sidi Kaouki, with catch of the day, organic salads, and chilled rosé. Naturally, there is exclusive access to the pool and the Sunday BBQ at Jardin des Douars, farm-to-table dining at the organic Bbio Farm, a tour of the 200-year-old Berber souk on Wednesday, a session at Azur Hammam, and surfing or horseback riding on the beach.
So, pretty ideal, especially for anyone planning a Moroccan family vacation: a few days in Marrakech (busy), a day in the desert (the dream, but pricey), and a few days in Essaouira at Castles in the Sand (relaxing!), and you've got an unforgettable dream vacation for the whole family. Promised.
