Lake Como: the best route, tips and pit stops
Just an hour and a half flight away you will find one of the most beautiful and popular places in Europe: Lake Como. Lake Como is located in the north of Italy in the province of Lombardy, just an hour from Milan. The lake is spread over a large area and has a total area of 148 km2. Fun fact: The lake is also the deepest in Europe at over 400 meters. So you can imagine that there is a lot of beautiful things to see around this lake. The most famous town is of course Just like itself, but the lake only really became popular with the arrival of the Nespresso man himself, George Clooney, who settled in the hamlet of Laglio in 2002.
But this place has much more to offer, we went out for you around Lake Como and found the best route and pit stops. We drove past the most picturesque places such as Cernobbio and Varenna, grand villas, had breakfast at the tastiest pastry shop, had an Italian drink (read: Apero) and enjoyed a lunch with a view of the lake.
A good start for this mini road trip is Cernobbio. This is the first town you find when you leave Como on the west side of the lake. Cernobbio offers just enough to see to get out of the car. Like most lake villages, it is a collection of beautiful old houses in small streets that you can stroll through. Mind you, you can walk from one side to the other in 15 minutes. The heart of the town is a large square right on the lake with a small harbor, restaurants, the ferry stop and a few beautiful villas.
To start the day well, we first walk in Pasticierria Poletti. You can come in here for a classic Italian breakfast, cappuccino with brioche, but they have a wide range of delicacies here. Poletti is also a nice place for an easy lunch.
If it is a hot day and you don't feel like sitting in the car, then stay in Cernobbio. Next to the ferry stop (which also comes from the center of Como), you will find Lido Di Cernobbio. A nice swimming pool right on the lake and a beautiful view. You can simply buy an entrance ticket for the whole day. Please note, the beds are not included.
We prefer to go there for lunch, but actually also for dinner Harry's Bar. A nice place with a large terrace on the square and ditto view. For a cold day there are heaters or space in the conservatory. You will find classic, seasonal and local dishes here, always ask about what they serve outside the menu. Good to know, reservations are a must.
If you want to spend a little more time you can Villa Erba The villa itself can be visited, but there are also often events such as exhibitions, concerts and artisan markets. The entrance is not on the square but on the main road just before you enter the center. Check in advance whether they are open.
Last but not least, Cernobbio is known for the very classic and luxurious hotel Villa D'Este from the 16th century with a beautifully landscaped garden. Although a night is mainly for the rich & famous, it is possible to take a look inside by making a reservation in one of the restaurants or for a drink in the bar or on the terrace in the summer. A cappuccino is expensive by Italian standards, but if you compare it to a cup of coffee from Amsterdam it is not that bad. See it as an entrance ticket to take a look inside the villa and take a walk in the garden. In the summer you can sit outside on the terrace with one of the best views over the lake. Reservations are a must, otherwise you will not get past security.
From Cernobbio we end up in Moltrasio, this small village is located a little higher and can be reached by car. You can also park downstairs and walk up the long stairs. It's a bit of a workout, but with a little perseverance you can reach the top in 15 minutes, with a beautiful view as a reward. If you climb a little further you will arrive in the small heart of Moltrasio. Here you will find Trattoria La Moltrasina, a historic restaurant with delicious local dishes and also one of the tastiest pizzas in this area. Not enough time for lunch or dinner, no problem, you can also stop here for a cup of coffee or a drink on the nice and large terrace. Or you can visit the neighbors in the Micro Mercato shop for delicious delicacies that you can take home with you.
In Moltrasio you will also find one of the Barts Bucketlist hotels: Passelaqua. This beautiful luxury hotel opened in 2022 in a classic, renovated villa. There are only a few rooms and they are all exclusively furnished. The decor is truly breathtaking, as are the views from the garden. The prices are just as extravagant, but hey, who knows? one day...
If you continue from Moltrasio on the road closest to the lake, you will drive through the village of Carate Urio towards the small hamlet of Laglio. On the route you will find the most beautiful villas with a bizarre view over Lake Como. The village is known for one of its famous residents, George Clooney, whose guests include Brad Pitt. However, it must be said right away that for the real fans who want to go there, there is actually nothing to see except a large fence. Even if you come by boat, the side of the lake is completely fenced off, and it is absolutely not worth making a special detour. What is worth it is to make a pit stop at From Luciano, by car or by boat. This is especially where many locals stop on the weekend for an aperitivo (read: spritz or a bitter with accompanying snacks). What is really recommended is that you can moor with a boat and order a picnic basket to take with you on the boat. What could be nicer than floating in the sun on a boat, sipping an Aperol spritz, and enjoying some Parma ham or a piece of Parmigiano?
A little further on we end up in Argegno, this is a place where many tourists stop on the square to enjoy the lake on a terrace with a drink or for lunch. One of the most historical places is La Piazetta. Despite the high tourist content on the square, this is a really good place with tasty classic Italian food. And that's exactly what we came for! If you're lucky, you'll sit upstairs on one of the balconies with a beautiful view of the lake.
Colonno is a very small town with not much to do, but it is the starting point The Greenway.
The Greenway is a 10 km long hiking trail which goes past and through the most beautiful villages of the lake. The between is beginner-proof, so it's also nice to go out with the family (notes: unfortunately not pram-p). This path continues through: Colonno, Sala Comacina, Ossuccio, Lenno, Mezzegra, Tremezzo and Griante. The between is one way so you can choose where you walk from and whether you take the entire route. One thing is guaranteed in any case, you will reach special places that you would not be able to reach by car.
The next pit stop is Lenno, also part of The Greenway. Lenno is really such a nice hamlet where you want to stop for a while. Besides the bay with beautiful views, we have two other very good reasons. Firstly, this is the location of Villa Balbianello, one of the most beautiful villas to visit; with a rich history and a special story about an explorer and alpinist. Not only is it beautiful inside, but especially outside you find yourself in a wonderful garden. It is therefore not surprising that this villa is often booked for weddings. Also nice for a good Insta shot.
Secondly, we stop in Lenno for a gelato. Here they sell real homemade artisan ice cream and sorbet at La Fabbrica del Gelato. You have to be patient because there is usually a long line, but it is definitely worth it. You will find this business on the church square on the water.
In Tremezzo you will find one of the oldest and most famous hotels on Lake Como, Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This hotel from 1910 in Art Nouveau style is the older brother of Hotel Passelaqua. Just like Passelaqua, it is a hotel level chic, but the golden tip is to just walk in for a drink on the terrace upstairs (the terrace downstairs by the pool is only for hotel guests) or make a reservation at their restaurant Pizza T. We think the pizzas are really worth the effort and money. They serve delicious Neapolitan pizzas with original and rich toppings, on the terrace in their beautiful garden with a view of the lake. Pizza T is only open in the summer and reservations are a must. Oh yes, if you have a reservation and you are by car, then you can just use the free Valet parking, you pay a bit but then you get what you pay for.
Menaggio is located next to Tremezzo. Nice to walk through, but we are mainly here for the ferry. On this ferry you can take your car to the other side. You can choose to go directly to Bellagio or to Varenna.
Varenna is one of ours all time favorites. In our opinion, this beautiful, picturesque town has the most charm of all. When you arrive by ferry, you park your car and walk along a long path along the water. You will then automatically pass nice terraces with a beautiful view over the lake. It is also highly recommended against apero-/ evening time to spend here. You do this, for example Bar il Molo, they regularly organize jazz evenings with live music.
And last but not least Bellagio, probably one of the most famous places around the lake among us Dutch. That's not surprising because it is super touristy. You will find a small selection of shops and restaurants here, but it is above all a beautiful place to walk through. Considering most restaurants really tourist traps we recommend you eat somewhere else. If you would like to eat something in Bellagio, you can go to Handout 63. This restaurant is run by a young couple. This nicely styled place has a unique concept and works with delicious and local products, unfortunately they are only open in the summer. By the way, in Bellagio and around the lake most restaurants and shops are closed in the winter.
From Bellagio you can drive back to Como on the east side of the lake via a panoramic route, or you can take the ferry back to Mennagio and drive back the same route from here.
If you drive back via the east side, you will pass the town of Lezzeno. Here you will find Hotel Filario, first of all a nice and luxurious hotel to stay in, but also a nice place to end the day with a dinner by the lake. At Filo restaurant you can enjoy modern Italian cuisine with a choice of delicious wines and one of the best views of the Bellagio coast.
If you really have something special to celebrate and want to end the day with a nice date night or a drink, you can also stop at The Mandarin Oriental. Reservations are a must to enter, but then you can go inside (read: with a golf caddy) and enjoy the beautiful villa and garden around it. You will find 2 restaurants here. Get fancy The Air, a delicious Italian/Japanese fusion restaurant sharing style with excellent service, or the more casual Bistro CO.MO for lunch, dinner or drinks. Another bucket list: if you are in the area for a while and really want to treat yourself, book an appointment at the Mandarin Spa.
After Blevio you continue driving and you are back in 15 minutes Just like.
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