Prego! An all things Italy edit | By Plinius Homes + Barts Boekje | Part 3: winter in Florence
Shari Wijnhoud has been collecting the best addresses throughout Italy for her platform for years Pliny HomesFrom now on, she will take us along monthly for a good dose of La Dolce Vita and share her favorite spots in the land of the boot. From unique villas and palazzi to charming B&Bs, fine dining spots, hidden beaches, and the nicest Italian customs.
Part 3:
Florence off-season – how to discover the city without the crowds
About cozy hotels, natural wine bars, and shops where you can wander around for hours.
Florence is as beautiful as a Renaissance painting. Everything here seems to be just right. It doesn't have the rough edges that Naples or Genoa have; it is manageable. The old center is only 5 km², so you can walk everywhere easily, which I love.
But that is also the downside: that small inner city is flooded by millions of tourists every year. So finding places that haven't been overrun is quite a challenge. This is probably the umpteenth list of Florence tips you've come across, but I've done my best to find a few places—alongside a number of classic spots that I just really like—that you probably don't have on your list yet.
Because no matter how touristy it is: I always love coming to Florence, preferably out of season. There are naturally fewer tourists then, and Tuscan cuisine is perfectly suited to autumnal or winter weather. Think of a richly filled ribollita with cavolo nero and pieces of bread, wild boar ragù with pici, that delicious thick hand-rolled pasta, and of course the bistecca alla fiorentina. Afterwards, something sweet with chestnut. You get the idea; so give me Florence in the winter any day.
So here is a winter list, with the finest places to stay, museums where you are practically alone, wine bars, restaurants, the best Italian tea shop, and the nicest bookstores.
Don't these places make you want to settle down inside with a good book, each and every one of them?
Plinius LITTLE GEM NO. 060: Stella d'Italia. I slept here myself the last time I was in Florence, and honestly: I could have stayed in my pink room all day. I got exactly the room I had hoped to get beforehand! Because how nice is this?
Plinius LITTLE GEM NO. 007: Casa Howard. I also visited Casa Howard. It's located on the corner from the station, so it's very convenient. And doesn't this just scream coziness? I love the eclectic interior and especially this beautiful claw-footed bathtub. I can already picture myself disappearing in there on an autumn day, with a good book and a glass of wine.
Plinius LITTLE GEM NO. 047: Le Tre Stanze. Do you want to imagine yourself as an artist in a bohemian apartment? Then this is the place for you. I dream of staying here for a longer period and spending my days in Florence writing or reading.
Pliny's Little Gem No. 35: Numbers. Another place where you feel at home as an artist. It is an artist in residence in an old palazzo, where artists come together to share ideas and work on projects. A mix of living, working, and learning. The design is by Andrew Trotter, whose entire work I find amazing. So, that is also on the wish list!
I must confess with shame that I have never been to the Uffizi, nor have I ever seen Michelangelo's David. These are, of course, the two most famous works of art in Florence, and yes, they are definitely on my list. The long queue will surely be worth the wait. Nevertheless, I prefer a lesser-known museum: the Museo Marino Marini, dedicated to the Tuscan sculptor and painter Marino Marini, housed in an old church with a sleek, modern interior. Marini's art shows a strong Etruscan influence. The forms are rough, primitive, and blocky, and they look very beautiful in this church. Please note: the museum is only open from Saturday through Monday.
Giunti Odeon is also really cool, a bookstore and cinema in Palazzo dello Strozzino. It's the kind of place where you can wander around for hours. During the day it's a bookstore, and in the evening a cinema, showing films in English or with English subtitles, which is usually not the case in Italy. They also organize all kinds of fun events, such as last month's making-of of Marie Antoinette with a livestream featuring Sofia Coppola.
Palazzo Strozzi also regularly hosts really cool exhibitions, such as Rothko earlier this year and Anish Kapoor a few years ago. Moreover, two years ago, a beautiful installation by the Dutch duo DRIFT: Shy Society hung in the courtyard.
Also lovely on a gloomy autumn day to scour shops.
Todo Modo. The best bookstore is definitely Todo Modo. A great selection of books and other fun goodies, and there is also a very nice café, so it is perfect for anyone who can't wait to open their new book.
La Via del Tè. Italy isn't really a tea country, so when I discovered this brand, I was very happy as a big tea enthusiast! The family business started in 1961 and has several shops in Florence. Tea in such a beautiful tin is, after all, a lovely souvenir to take home.
Momo Vintage. A lovely shop to browse for beautiful vintage items! Also a big fan of this Santo Spirito neighborhood in general.
Officina Profumo-Pharmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. Tourists are queuing here too. But then again, it is a beautiful old pharmacy that looks more like a museum: its history dates back to 1221. The rose water spray smells so good and looks beautiful in your bathroom cabinet as well.
S.forno. A very cozy bakery and food shop just a little further down the street than Momo Vintage. This bakery is located next to the famous vintage photo booth. That remains a nice souvenir, after all.
Alberto Cozzi. Looking for a beautiful, personalized leather notebook? Then you've come to the right place.
The Housekeeper. A café and a beautifully curated shop in one, with gorgeous flowers.
Quercioli & Lucherini. Something else Italians are very good at is beautiful pajamas, socks, and lingerie. The perfect shop for beautiful underwear.
From trattorias passed down through generations to natural wine bars: here is the best food and drink in Florence.
Enoteca Bellini. Close to the Museo Marino Marini and perhaps my favorite wine bar. They have a delightful selection of small, tasty bites and salads, and lots of delicious local wines.
Il Santino. A slightly better-known wine bar, but also loved by the Florentines themselves. They serve delicious hams, cheeses, and antipasti here. The organic wines come from the region. Next door, you will also find restaurant Il Santo Bevitore and a panificio.
Enoteca Spontanea. Looking for a cozy natural wine bar? This is the place for you. A changing menu, delicious food, and the kind of place you can always go to.
Natural Wines & Groove. Another lovely natural wine bar where they also play great records.
Trattoria Sostanza. A visit to Florence is not complete without Sostanza, a favorite of Florentines for over 150 years. Be sure to order the butter chicken and definitely do not leave without the meringue pie, my personal highlight!
C-ucina. Not a classic, but a really cool place. You can feel the creative atmosphere of the team behind it. The menu is so innovative that you’d want to order everything.
Trattoria Camillo. Another classic, for a true Florentine restaurant experience. Old-fashioned, with classic dishes and a classic interior. Exactly how I like it.
Cibreo Caffè. The little sister of the iconic Cibreo, and I had a truly delicious meal here.
Florence is a city to pause in regularly, for coffee, pastries, or a scoop of ice cream.
Ditta Artigianale. Very good Italian specialty coffee, at a few places in the city.
Gelateria La Carraia. The place where I always stop for an ice cream and then eat it while walking along the Arno.
Caffè Gilli. A classic café in the heart of the city and the oldest in Florence. Yes, it is a bit touristy, but it is also considered the living room of the city. Think of Café de Flore in Paris.
Vivoli. Another Florentine classic, but unfortunately nowadays mostly known for the long TikTok lines, I think. Anyway: the affogato is divine. If there is a line, I would just keep walking!
Wild Buns Bakery. For specialty coffee and Scandinavian pastries.
My Sugar Artisanal Gelato. Also a great tip for delicious ice cream!
Caffè Lietta. The kind of place where the Florentines themselves often meet up, just on the edge of the old center. By the way, also nice for an aperitivo!
Op plinius By the way, you can find plenty of nice hotels or houses near Florence, perfect as a base to discover the charm of this region. For example, this lovely Borgo in the Chianti area: little gem N016
Or beautiful villas such as, for example Villa No. 001 of Villa No. 063 A 1 hour and 15 minute drive from Florence.