Ksamil, Albania, or the Maldives of Europe – but is it true?
We love sun. We love tropical. And we absolutely love Europe. When everyone started whispering (and then shouting) that Ksamil in Albania was the “Maldives of Europe” would be, we did what we had to do: we booked that ferry from Corfu and went to see for ourselves. With the memory of the real Maldives fresh in our minds, so we would compare. With a nickname like 'the Maldives of Europe' it can only be good. At least... That's what you would think.
This is our honest review about Ksamil Albania.
Spoiler: don't do it.
From Corfu you can easily reach it by ferry no time in the 'Maldives of Europe'. Honestly? You shouldn't have done that.
Okay, that deserves a bit more explanation. Because yes! The water is blue, the beaches white. There is absolutely beautiful Instagram content to be made. The old Butrint (national park) is (in itself) beautiful. There are boats and seafood and terraces with a view (we will come back to that), it is small and manageable and a day trip is easy to do in terms of time: Ksamil and Corfu are only 21 kilometers apart, so you can get there in no time. You take the ferry from the harbor either in the morning or at the end of the day, an hour later you are there (note: you are not allowed to take your rental car with you so only book for yourself take a taxi on the other side - if you are stubborn and still want to go).
Once on the other side, the party actually stops immediately. You sail to Sarandë, a busy and hectic coastal city where even more construction is taking place and where the hustle and bustle is therefore alternated with the hustle and bustle of construction machines and unfinished buildings. From there it is about a 20-minute taxi ride (40 euros). That is okay, because paradise awaits, right? Not true. What no one tells you is that from May to October you will find yourself among noisy day tourists and lying on beach beds that are stacked on top of each other. The 'white' beach has been constructed, the speakers of the beach businesses compete with each other to see who can make the most noise and in the water tear (yes, tear) many (far too many) hysterical jet skis converted into red and yellow racing cars (yes really, jet skis with a 'coat' of a racing car).
Add to that the fact that its popularity has resulted in a building frenzy with illegal constructions, privatization of beaches and sometimes a lack of infrastructure. If you are looking for peace and quiet or something that resembles the Maldives of Europe as the headlines would have you believe… There are much better options.
But what about those beautiful pictures from social media? Is that a lie? No, not entirely. You can stand with your back to the dilapidated buildings and the ugly new construction and frame your image so that the speedboat is out of sight. And we found exactly three places in the area that we really liked, with a lovely beach / terrace and absolutely good food. So yes, if you are staying on Corfu for a longer period of time, you can definitely do that. If you do, go to one of these places for lunch:
- Hotel Denoel & Restaurant, although free posh quite ok. Next door are the wooden decking of hotel Manta a nice place to lie down for a while and jump into the water.
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Guvat Bar Restorant we found the nicest and tastiest option. An authentic place with a nice terrace above the water, without the nuisance of the adjacent beach. Nearby is Bar Restaurant Rilinda a classic, no-fuss option where you can also lie comfortably on a sunbed.
Our tip: stay on Corfu. So much to see, so much to do. The best tip already: a By June accommodation in the middle of the island. Lovely houses with perfect private pool (there are 2 bedrooms and the houses are detached: ideal for a family). The old town is the most fun (20 minutes drive - at ByJune you always book incl. car rental) and the beaches on the west coast are so beautiful and fun (less than 15 minutes drive). Best of both worlds! (If you sleep in the city or on the coast, we found it quite a 'far' drive to get to the other favorite). Here we collect more Corfu tips.
Oh and Albania on the schedule? Albania undoubtedly has beautiful places, but Ksamil, the 'Maldives of Europe', can go back into the brochure as far as we are concerned.