Arosa Lenzerheide: the ski area in Switzerland for families and freeriders
Ask anyone who wanders around here for more than a few days what makes the ski area so good, and you invariably get the same answer: in Arosa Lenzerheide, there is something for everyone. It is diverse. In the wooded valleys of Graubünden, eastern Switzerland, lies the ski area that lives up to that reputation. Arosa Lenzerheide is suitable for those cautiously learning to make their first turns, for those who want to blast through the powder at full speed, and for everyone in between or beyond.
Since 2014, the two areas have been joined together, so you can ski straight from one side to the other. 225 kilometers of slopes, modern lifts with no waiting times, and a huge amount of variety. BAM. But it's also about the variety. Pretty wide (when we were there) sunny runs where you can really go for it, and at the same time, forests you can whiz through. Challenging sections for those who really want to work those legs. And plenty of places to stop by to take off your ski boots halfway through for a glass of wine (with Swiss raclette!) or a hot chocolate.
And then there is all the fun off the slopes. Arosa Lenzerheide is one you put on your list and never take off. It is not without reason that there are so many returning visitors every year for their family ski holiday, off-piste adventure, or simply to laze around somewhere in between.
Arosa Lenzerheide consists of two sides (and so you literally have best of both worlds!) and although it will most likely take a day before you understand how that works, it is actually very easy. And fun, because the two differ more from each other than you might think at first glance.
Lenzerheide is perhaps slightly sportier, with fairly wide, open slopes, a large snow park, and a lively après-ski scene featuring major festivals. The village thrives on tourism but has enough individuality not to feel manicured. The surroundings are more wooded than the Arosa side, the runs are longer and more varied, and there is plenty for both beginners and those who like to shred.
Arosa is different. The village is smaller, quieter, and looks just a little more Swiss. It is a very nice village, though. The feeling that you are somewhere that hasn't been discovered by everyone is stronger here than on the Lenzerheide side. The slopes here are more challenging, the atmosphere a bit cozier, and when it comes to après-ski, Arosa is actually the star of the two. The KuhBar has been a household name here for years: an institution where famous après-ski artists perform and guests sometimes travel specifically for the parties, without skis on their feet.
The Urdenbahn connects the two. A gondola that travels high over the mountain ridge and takes you from one world to the other in a single movement. The view alone is reason enough to take this gondola.
225 kilometers of slopes, of which 110 are blue, 87 red, and 28 black. The ski area extends from 1.229 to 2.865 meters in altitude, so it is snow-sure and offers views.
Yay, time for the slopes! 225 kilometers of pure fun, but there are a few sections you shouldn't miss. The long runs on the Lenzerheide side are wide, fast, and offer enough variety to keep you entertained for weeks. There is plenty of room for those who really want to push the limits, and for those who don't. The Silvano Beltrametti World Cup run is the most challenging and steepest run in the ski area, with a maximum gradient of approximately 66 percent. Advanced skiers can really push themselves on the woods around Lenzerheide. However, for these, the rule is: only do it if you know what you are doing, and never ski them alone, but under supervision.
The Arosa side has steeper peaks and shorter, pointier descents. Less for gliding along comfortably, more for really sinking your teeth into. Ideal for day three or four, when your legs are ready for it.
And then there is night skiing. Every Friday from late December to mid-March, the Proschieri lift and the Stätzerhorn chairlift in Lenzerheide open from 18:00 to 22:00. Skiing in the dark, under the stars, on illuminated slopes and without the daytime crowds. We thought that was really great, especially with a cheese fondue afterwards.
Whether it's children seeing snow for the first time or those who already know they're going to be pros, Arosa Lenzerheide has something for both. There are six separate snow gardens, most of them free, where the little ones can start stress-free. They then build upon this on an extensive network of children's slopes, and when they are ready, they simply ski along on the specially marked family trails. For those who dare to try a little more, there is the Bear Snowpark.
Freeriders can let loose in the Wood Ranch terrain park, early birds can score the first tracks at sunrise with the Early Bird special, and those who take speed seriously can test themselves on the FIS competition slopes. These are the same slopes where international races are held, simply accessible to anyone with enough guts. Cool! And if you're tired of the slopes for a while, read on for the tips.
There are plenty of options, and although a whole guide with the best spots in Arosa Lenzerheide is coming soon, we are already recommending two nice hotels here:
Valbella Resort The hotel in Lenzerheide is spacious and relaxed, with a spa in a tower (so multiple floors of spa, unbelievably nice!). Pesko's ski rental is right next to the hotel. There is an Italian restaurant, a local restaurant with adults-only areas, and a buffet with lots of delicious food. The hotel belongs to the top executive of the Lego Group. And in addition to a ski school on the slopes, he also championed a Lego-themed kids' club. And be sure to try the tiramisu martini at the bar.
Hotel Altein Arosa is part of the Faern Collection. And a totally different kind of stay. Sleeker, more refined, more modern. With a large spa and the fantastic Alchemilla Parlour Bar. A stone's throw from Arosa, which is small and manageable enough to walk through after dinner.
One of the reasons why Swiss ski resorts have a ten-point lead over the rest of the Alps is, of course, the food. Regional, delicious, and in Arosa-Lenzerheide often with a terrace where you could linger for hours.
Alp Nova It is located on the Lenzerheide side and is exactly what you want halfway through a ski day. Graubündner and Swiss specialties, local products, and a sun terrace with a view that reminds you why on earth you came to Switzerland. Go there for lunch, not for a quick bite. The cordon bleu here was phenomenal.
Motta Hut It is located on the east side of Lenzerheide and is the more upscale option. Here you can find delicious flamkuchen, fine wines, a hearty salad, and of course the cremeschnitte: the specialty and best described as a kind of next-level cream puff. It took us roughly an hour to get our skis back on after this cremeschnitte. But man, it was delicious.
Saddle hut Located at 2.401 meters on the Arosa side, it is simply best described as: *aifach* Schwiiz. Rustic, warm, Swiss wine, views in every direction. The Sattelbar outside when the weather cooperates, inside when it doesn't. The burger here is exactly what you want after a morning of full throttle. And the lentil curry is delicious too.
Alp Stätz This is the place for after night skiing. Cheese fondue à discretion, which means: eat as much as you want, because the pot keeps coming. Add some nice wine and you're all set.
Clever minds who actually get around to après ski here. First of all, because lunch has probably already largely taken you down, whether or not from the long runs. But even more so, because there are so many events to keep you entertained (Arosa Humor Festival (December), the Arosa Gay Ski Week (January), and music festivals such as Arosa Electronica (March) and Live is Life (April)). But for those who still have energy left:
Chillihutta in Lenzerheide is located right on the slopes between the Stätzertäli and Stätzerhorn lifts. Here, Thommy does what a good après-ski hut should do every day: loud, warm, and with the Bünder cinnamon liqueur that was invented right here. The homemade chili is legendary (spoiler: we thought we were being served a sweet shot, but ended up with something that tasted more like a tomato shot with a dash of Tabasco, interestingL.).
KuhBar On the Arosa side is the beating heart of après-ski in all of Arosa Lenzerheide. Larger than the Chillihütta, busier, and with a reputation that extends far beyond the slopes, some guests travel specifically for the KuhBar without ever stepping onto a ski. Famous après-ski artists perform here regularly, and in 2023 the bar underwent a thorough renovation: the result is a beautiful wooden structure with an imposing cow's head inside as the eye-catcher. After a day on the Arosa slopes, this is the logical final destination and we won't hold you back to judge if it is earlier in the day.
Arosa Lenzerheide and skiing or snowboarding is the golden combination, but there is much more to do. Here it comes. In the village of Lenzerheide is the WOW Plaza, A winter outdoor space with an ice rink and mini-golf. And they are going all out with it.
It is in Arosa Eisbadi Arosa, Europe's first ice bath, active since 2021. A guided workshop teaches you how to prepare your body, what happens physiologically, and why cold water is better than it sounds. Tried and testedIt takes some getting used to, but you feel really good for the rest of the day. Take a swimsuit, a towel, and just go for it.
With more than 60 kilometers winter hiking trailsYou don't even need to click on your skis. Walk through forests, along high-altitude panoramic paths, and when you've seen enough, simply pull up a chair at one of the twenty mountain huts that you can reach on foot or by chairlift. For a real day trip, take the Heidi & Gigi Trail, which connects Arosa and Lenzerheide. You don't have to be a skier to go up the mountain here.
For more information about Arosa Lenzerheide, go to arosalenzerheide.swiss