Slow Summer in Switzerland: why Arosa is the best summer destination
In recent years, we were only too happy to take one of the most beautiful train journeys in Switzerland to reach the mountain village of Arosa. We came primarily for the snow, the tranquility on the slopes where everyone can find their way around, and the convivial atmosphere and saunas afterwards. Until we decided that we should take a look in the summer as well.
Best decision ever. Because at 1800 meters, the mountains turn out to be green, the fresh air delightful, and the village exactly as quiet and at the same time just as cozy as in winter. So we’ll just say it like it is: Arosa might just be the finest summer destination you never considered for the summer.
You can drive to Arosa (just under ten hours by car from Utrecht), but there are also a number of other great options. We flew to Zurich and then took the train to Arosa, aka the Rhaetian Railway. And from the Chur leg onwards, you'll be on the edge of your seat. The train ride takes about an hour, winding through the Schanfigg Valley over viaducts, past forests and tiny mountain villages.
In Arosa, you don't need a car, because everything is easy to do on foot and the Arosa bus is included in the Arosa Card (more on this below). Ideal. And for those who prefer to take the train all the way from the Netherlands to Switzerland; that is, of course, perfectly possible too.
Chances are you will fill your days actively when you are in Arosa. It is all the more pleasant, then, if you can get a good rest somewhere. There are more than enough lovely hotels in the village. We opted for a slow summer at 1.800 meters at Hotel Valsana, on the edge of the forest just outside the village. Originally built as the first hotel to operate entirely without gas or oil (geothermal heating and an ice battery do the work), it has since been awarded two Michelin Keys. It features forty rooms and nine apartments with balconies. Your day starts with yoga or pilates, or with an espresso from Quintacoira, the coffee roastery from Chur located on the ground floor.
Afterwards, the plan is hiking, cycling, or playing tennis on two indoor and outdoor courts with tennis director Petr Osusky honing your forehand. Back at the hotel, an 800-square-meter spa spread over two floors awaits, featuring a 32-degree relaxation pool and saunas overlooking the forest. Dinner is at TWIST, where the plant-based Moving Mountains menus are at least as good as the classics, and on summery Saturdays in August, they spin funky records on the terrace.
Just a quick note on the Arosa Card: you receive it automatically from your first overnight stay. Included are all mountain lifts, the village buses, the Rhätische Bahn route within the area, the climbing park, the boats and pedal boats on the Obersee, the skill center for bikers, and the lido at the Untersee. In 2026, the card runs from mid-June to the end of October, and the exact activities included vary by season.
So in Arosa, you really get the most out of your holiday. If you take one of the cable cars, you don't have to climb to get to the top and can start your hike from there. And there is plenty of hiking to be done, as Arosa boasts around 200 kilometers of hiking trails. Up to you how tough it gets. Our favorite walking routes (or hiking routes, whatever you want to call them) are the following:
Schwellisee & Älplise
The two-lake hike features quiet paths bathed in clear mountain light and lakes where you want to linger for hours. Pack a lunch, sit on a rock, and enjoy.
The waterfalls
Waterfalls? Check, Arosa has them like no other! This is a shorter trip from the village, ideal for a warm afternoon.
Would you like on-the-spot advice on which walk suits you best? You can simply walk into the Arosa Tourist Office to plan a route.
Prätschsee – Prätschalp – Rot Tritt – Scheidegg
This one is a bit more intense, with views your phone can't capture.
The 10 Lakes Route
About 15 kilometers along mountain lake after mountain lake. For the day you really want to hike.
Schanfigg High Trail
The high-altitude path all the way back to Chur. Ambitious, but you can easily do it in sections and take the train back up. At least then you'll have a good reason to take that beautiful train ride again.
The Eichhörnliweg
This is the squirrel trail just outside the city center, where you can feed the critters from your hand. It is flat, easy to walk, and yes, intended for children, but we don't judge if adults walk it too. We did as well ;).
Tip for early birds: in midsummer, sunrise tours to the Weisshorn are organized, including breakfast at the top.
Look, you can walk for hours to a lake, and we certainly recommend that. But Arosa itself also has two located in the village, which require very few steps to reach.
On the Obersee you can rent a small boat in the summer (free with the Arosa Card) and stroll along the promenade. The Submarine is shallower and therefore warmer. Here there is a sandy beach, a lake with entertainment such as a diving board, a sunbathing area, and a terrace. Mountain water remains mountain water, so expect it to be cold. And make sure you don't dive in immediately after hiking, as your body really needs to get used to the cold temperatures.
Are there brown bears living in Switzerland? Not really. But at Prätschli, close to the middle station, lies the Arosa Bearland, and this was the unexpected highlight for us. Brown bears live here that have been rescued from circuses, concrete pens, and private cages, cared for in collaboration with animal welfare organization VIER PFOTEN. And that is impressive to see. They have a huge stretch of mountainside all to themselves, with trees, grass, and mud pools.
So you aren't standing there looking at an attraction, but at animals that are allowed to simply be bears for the first time in their lives. With the Arosa Card, you get in at a discount.
And while you're there... From Bärenland, you can walk back to Prätschli across the in about an hour. Ricola Herb RoadYes, Ricola of the pastille! Along the way, there are ten stations where you learn which mountain herbs are in those candies, how they are harvested, and how the brand started. You can smell, taste, and turn things. And before you know it, you’ve covered your steps again.
Sounds like something for kids, and it is, but we walked without kids and were at least as enthusiastic. And the view along the way is worth the walk anyway.
Let's return briefly to the Obersee in the village. On Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, the Obersee transforms into a hydroscreen, a semi-circular fan of millions of water droplets that catches laser light. The show lasts about ten minutes, the program changes, and it is completely free. It may be cancelled in bad weather, so check beforehand.
Something a bit quieter? On Tuesday at 5:00 PM, there is a 45-minute classical concert in the tiny Bergkirchli above the village. Tickets cost around CHF 20 and the walk there is beautiful. It is part of Arosa Kultur, which programs more than a hundred concerts, lectures, and performances between June and October.
And do you want to understand why this village looks the way it looks: the Heimatmuseum Schanfigg tells the story of Arosa as a health resort, when people came here for the air instead of the snow.
We were stunned by the restaurants in Arosa. Look, you most likely come here for an active holiday, but we found it to be just as much a culinary destination. And the dining here is done in two ways: in the village or on the mountain. In the village, we would certainly dine here again;
Goods shovels
The old goods shed by the station, where Bündner classics get a modern twist. High ceilings, a beautiful bar, and one of the village's most popular spots, so make a reservation.
Aifach
Located on Poststrasse, and conceptually the nicest spot in the village. They don't have a menu here, but a four-course surprise menu that changes daily, depending on the season and the chefs' mood. A vegetarian option is available. The kitchen is open and situated in the middle of the restaurant, so you spend the entire evening watching what will soon appear on your plate. Open only in the evenings, closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and reservations are highly recommended.
Gutschi
This is the bar and pizzeria. Best of both worlds: an Alpine restaurant and a pizzeria. And above all, a terrace with a view of the lake.
Twist
The restaurant of the Valsana hotel. Here you will find modern Alpine cuisine featuring regional products and a fully plant-based menu. Moving Mountains-card. Handy if you don't want to go outside anymore, but you can also go there if you aren't staying. The steak tartare was delicious!
Around Arosa lie dozens bergbeizli, Alpine huts that are simply open in the summer, where you walk in wearing hiking boots and where the menu consists of Bündner barley soup, capuns, rösti, and cake.
Bergbeizli Ochsenalp
Our favorite, at 1936 meters, and only accessible on foot or by mountain bike.
Pratschalp Beizli
Easy to combine with Bärenland and the Ricola trail. Quiet and small.
Pratschli-Stall
Further on at Prätschli, and you can also go there in the evening, which most mountain huts don't do.
Carmennahütte
Beautifully situated on the route between the Hörnli and the Weisshorn. A hiker's stop par excellence.
Hörnlihütte
At 2511 meters on the Hörnligrat, built by the ski club in 1923. Recently expanded with a significantly extended panoramic terrace. History and views.
Also be fun Alpine view in Innerarosa with a large terrace, a veranda for when the sun isn't shining. Alpine rose Medergen is for the day you really want to go for a walk.
Most mountain restaurants close around five o'clock, so plan your lunch there and your dinner in the village. And opening hours per hut vary by season; the daily list of what is open is on the website of Arosa Lenzerheide.
Arosa isn't *just* slow, you know. In fact: it is located right in the middle of the bikekingdom, the mountain biking area that stretches from Arosa via Lenzerheide to Chur and has since hosted World Cups and a World Championship. There are flow trails where you mainly need to steer, and a skill center to practice a bit first.
You can rent a bike at Gisler Sport in the village, a family business where they put you on the right size without any hassle, e-bikes included. You take lessons at the Arosa Bike School, starting from the Hörnli valley station, even if you have never ridden a mountain bike before. A really fun way to get acquainted with mountain biking.
Yeah, this is so cool! Arosa has an 18-hole course (par 65) at about 1800 meters, designed by Don and Peter Harradine. It is one of the highest situated in Europe.
Nowhere else are you likely to find such a beautiful course with alpine meadows, larch forests, streams, and nearly a hundred meters of elevation difference between the lowest and highest holes. You need a handicap, the green fee is around CHF 100, and in the height of summer you can still play a sunset round starting around four o'clock. Afterwards, you eat at the Golf House. You can also hit a few balls on the driving range. You play among the locals, but we felt very welcome here.
The summer season runs from approximately mid-June to the end of October. July and August are the greenest and warmest, while September is quieter and the light is at its most beautiful.
A few dates to keep in mind: at the end of July there are the Arosa Jazz Days, in July and August the bike weekends, and early September the Arosa Classic Car (a 7,3-kilometer climb with 76 bends up Langwies in classic racing cars). The latter is the busiest weekend of the summer, so book early if that’s your thing (or avoid it if you’re coming for peace and quiet). Those events are really great fun, but that’s what the entire summer in Arosa is like!
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