JapanApril 8, 2024, by Isa de Laat

Guide for Hakuba Valley in Japan: slopes, food & sleeping (winter and summer)

Japan, April 8, 2024, by Isa de Laat

Guide for Hakuba Valley in Japan: slopes, food & sleeping (winter and summer)

The next station is Hakuba Valley... Chances are you want to ski in Japan for the powder snow and onsen, and at the end of the day and sushi or ramen on the slopes. When you search on the internet, there is a good chance that you will end up on Niseko. We get it, Niseko is wonderful, but also a bit difficult to reach. Especially for just a few days on the slats or board. The other ski area, Hakuba, is not inferior and is perhaps a more logical choice.

And although the Niseko ski area is known for its 'champagne powder', Hakuba can also do something about it. This is all about authentic winter sports fun without the price tag of a Niseko. Hakuba is the ultimate mix of powder, affordability and Japanese charm, all just a short train ride from Tokyo. With ten ski areas making up Hakuba Valley, there's plenty of terrain to explore here.

Do you also want to visit the Japanese Alps? Then Hakuba is an ideal stopover.

Hakuba Valley winter sports

Hakuba Valley winter sports

Hakuba Valley claims to be Japan's largest ski resort and although it is made up of ten resorts, not all of them are connected. With a Hakuba Valley lift pass you have access to all resorts, but you have to take the bus. The main ski areas are:

Hakuba Happo-One Snow Resort: known from the 1998 Winter Olympics and the largest of this ride. Enough backcountry possibility and somewhat unique among resorts in the region.

Hakuba Goryu Snow Resort en Hakuba47 Winter Sports Park are joined together and can be enjoyed on one all mountain pass. These resorts rival Happo One in size, and have the longest season in Hakuba. Hakuba Goryu is the only resort offering night skiing in Hakuba Valley (open and groomed every evening between late December and late March) and the only resort in Hakuba offering sunrise skiing (between late December and late March, and on weekends and holidays, the Sky 4 Quad lift on Toomi opens at 7am).

Hakuba Iwatake Snow Field: This ski area offers beautiful views of the Hakuba Valley and is popular for its wide slopes.

Hakuba Norikura / Hakuba Cortina: Although technically two separate ski areas, Norikura and Cortina are connected by a shuttle bus and sometimes share lift tickets. Here too there is a good chance of both excellent powder snow and off-piste opportunities.

Summer

Summer

And you actually want to go to Hakuba in the summer. Take the Goryu Alpine Botanical Garden as an example: once the sun does its work, the top of Hakuba Goryu Resort transforms (from June to October) into a vibrant canvas of green and colors. After a quick gondola ride, more than 300 species and 2 million alpine flowers unfold at an altitude of 1.500 metres. The resort also serves as a starting point for hiking trails (and beautiful multi-day hikes). hikes), suitable for all levels. Between September and October, visitors can marvel at the explosion of autumn colours, with Hakuba's iconic three-tiered autumn leaves adorning the surroundings.

The options are also endless in the other resorts: Iwatake Mountain Resort has several downhill MTB tracks with more than 500 meters of altitude and Hakuba 47 also has a lift-accessed downhill mountain bike trail. On the south side of the valley in Omachi City, the three lakes Aokiko, Nakatsunako and Kizakiko are good for a refreshing dip. You can also paddle surfing, wakeboarding or canoeing.

Restaurants

Restaurants

Resorts such as Hakuba Village, Wadano and Echoland all have a wide selection hip, trendy and cheap eateries, with more and more fine-dining options.  Some good options: 

  • IZAKAYA HIE (Echoland): mysterious, hard to find and local Japanese delicacies in an authentic building with a very small front door. Be sure to order the baked potato salad.
  • Nijiya Donmaru Hakubaten: surprised we came across this gem with seafood dishes for next to nothing.
  • H (Wadano): an izakaya run by a Japanese couple, where they cook with seasonal, high-quality ingredients. Just order what they recommend and you'll be fine.
  • Mimi's Restaurant & Bar: a mix of western, Italian and Japanese, using only the freshest and best ingredients from the region. The ideal combination after a day on the slopes.
  • Pilar: on top of the gondola at Happo-On is the best option for lunch on the slopes.

Accommodation

Accommodation

Echoland has the most buzz after skiing, so it's worth considering booking accommodation there. Hotel Oak Forest in Echoland is a top option. The other resorts are also fine and the buses take you everywhere in no time. Some good accommodations are:

  • Hakuba Yamano Hotel is a family-run lodge with a nice price tag. With larger rooms a good option for families or groups.
  • Snow Peak Field Suite: we would like to camp in one of these eight glamping tents. A bit out of the center, but with a beautiful view of the starry sky and fire pit.
  • Roka: luxury apartments including ski-in, ski-out in Happo One.
  • Hakuba Mominoki Hotel: iconic in the region and a favorite among both Japanese and international guests. The full-service hotel has been run by the same local family for decades, including Happo One.