memmo Alfama It is tucked away against a hill in Alfama, the oldest district of Lisbon. You can recognize the facade by the mural of Portuguese street artist Vhils, and behind that facade lie 42 rooms in a restored 19th-century building. Yet, it is not about the rooms here. memmo Alfama tops our list because of the terrace: a small infinity pool with a view over the red rooftops and the Tagus. You won't be swimming laps there, but with this panorama, no one is in a hurry. The interior is minimalist and warm, featuring Portuguese materials, so nothing inside distracts from that view. Guests must be at least sixteen years old. For couples, that is good newsNo cannonballs in the pool. From the door, you dive straight into the alleys and stairs of Alfama, towards the castle and the cathedral. Flat shoes are not a luxury here. By the way, memmo Alfama has a sister place in Príncipe Real, should you wish to stay on the other side of town next time.

Dona Graça Lisbon Apartments It is located in Graça, on the highest of Lisbon's seven hills, just above Alfama. That means climbing, but also: a quiet, somewhat sleepy neighborhood where the flow of tourists is much thinner than down below. The studios are situated in a renovated 19th-century building and are brightly and minimally furnished, with Portuguese details that reveal which city you are waking up in. Because they are apartments, you are truly your own boss here: no breakfast room with fixed times, just your own rhythm. For those who prefer to experience Lisbon as a local rather than a tourist, Dona Graça is high on our list. From here, you can stroll straight down into Alfama. The return journey is another story, so you will have definitely earned that extra pastel de nata in the afternoon.

1908 Lisboa Hotel The Largo do Intendente owes its name to a prize. In 1908, this Art Nouveau building won the Valmor Prize, Portugal's most prestigious architecture award. Inside, the original tiles are still in place, interspersed with works by contemporary Portuguese artists, including Bordalo II. For a long time, the square itself was a neighborhood you preferred to walk around. Nowadays, there are bars, music plays, and the Infame restaurant has its terrace there. That is precisely why the 1908 Lisboa Hotel is on our list: you sleep in a monument while it buzzes outside. To be fair, with a room overlooking the square, you will hear that in the evening as well. Light sleepers will therefore opt for the back room, while night owls will go for the view of the Largo do Intendente.

Lumen Hotel & The Lisbon Light Show In Picoas, just above Lisbon's old center, everything revolves around light. And you can take that literally: every evening, the hotel projects a video mapping show about the history of Lisbon onto the courtyard walls. Architect Frederico Valsassina built Lumen from a row of dilapidated buildings. On the roof sits Ora d'Oro, with a swimming pool and a cocktail bar. A dip during the day, a history lesson in the evening with a drink in your hand: that is culture you don't even have to leave your hotel for. Lumen is larger than most hotels on this list, and a bit sleek/businesslike too, and is located slightly outside the old districts. On the other hand, the hotel also works perfectly if you are traveling with children. They will probably find a light show on the wall more exciting than another church.

Locke de Santa Joana It is located in a 17th-century monastery close to Marquês de Pombal. During the renovation, Roman and other historical artifacts were unearthed, and these are now simply displayed in the courtyard. The original tiles, frescoes, and doorposts have also been preserved. You don't sleep in a hotel room here, but in an apartment, ranging from a studio to a three-story residence, most with their own kitchen. Around the green swimming pool in the courtyard, you easily forget that the traffic from Marquês de Pombal is roaring around the corner. There is a coworking café, so anyone secretly bringing work for a few days will be well catered for here. Families can stay in the family apartments. It is not exactly intimate: Locke de Santa Joana has 370 apartments. But for a longer stay with the freedom of a private kitchen and the luxury of a swimming pool, this is a strong combination as far as we are concerned.

POSTCODE Liberdade This is an aparthotel located near Avenida da Liberdade, the chic avenue lined with Lisbon's major fashion houses. Here, you sleep in an apartment with a private kitchen, and a rooftop terrace awaits for a drink at the end of the day. POSTCODE Liberdade does not have a restaurant or an elaborate lobby, and it doesn't need to: the city is your dining room. It is perfect for those staying a bit longer or traveling with friends who prefer their own space rather than two separate hotel rooms. From here, you can easily walk down the Avenida towards Baixa, or up to Marquês de Pombal.

Of all the addresses in this list, we would The Vintage Lisbon Probably the first to book again. The hotel is situated on a quiet side street between Avenida da Liberdade and Príncipe Real. The name is no empty promise: the entire hotel exudes mid-century charm, featuring Danish designer furniture by Kai Kristiansen and Arne Vodder, among others. Each room has its own bar cart, and honestly, the hotel had us there already. Underground, there is a spa with an indoor pool, sauna, and hammam, for when your legs protest after a day of hiking the hills. On top sits the V Rooftop, overlooking the Castle of São Jorge. The clientele is mature and the atmosphere subdued, so this is primarily a place for couples.

And if we had the money, we stayed here every week, at Hotel das Amoreiras, In our view, the most beautiful hotel in Lisbon and the only hotel on the leafy Jardim das Amoreiras, overlooking Lisbon's old aqueduct. It is also small: 17 rooms and 2 suites in the attic. Designer Pedro Oliveira conceived the hotel together with his wife Alicia Velero, and designed a large part of the furniture and lamps himself. The colors are green and brown, as if the garden across the street simply walked inside. In the bar with mirrored walls, they serve ginjinha, the Portuguese cherry liqueur. Hotel das Amoreiras is located in a quiet residential area, a short distance from the hustle and bustle, and that is precisely what makes it so attractive to us. Here you sleep like the well-to-do Lisboners: discreet, with a square full of trees right outside the door. Ideal for a weekend for two.

The big brother/sister of the hotel in Comporta, an hour's drive from Lisbon, is much better known, but Sublime Lisboa It's worth a visit too. It's located around the corner from the previous hotel, also in Amoreiras, in a townhouse with 15 rooms. No two rooms are the same: think high ceilings, bold colors, and geometric wallpaper that makes you want to take a picture for your own renovation. At restaurant Davvero, you can eat Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, handy if you're ready for a plate of pasta after a week of bacalhau. Sublime Lisboa also caters to families, with suites that can accommodate an extra bed. Hesitating between this hotel and Hotel das Amoreiras is a luxury problem: at least you've made a good choice of neighborhood.

There is no shortage of beauty and beauty hotel Pátio do Tijolo is another such example. The bright boutique hotel with 24 rooms between Bairro Alto and Príncipe Real can only be found via a hidden passageway and is a delight. Once you spot the entrance, you step into a patio garden where you hear almost nothing of the city. The hotel revolves around the shared spaces: the garden, the kitchen, and the Loureiro lounge. Consequently, you feel more like a guest in a home than in a hotel. Some rooms have a balcony with a view of the Lisbon skyline. The design is white and minimalist, the opposite of the hustle and bustle a few streets away. As far as we are concerned, Pátio do Tijolo is the place to go for anyone seeking a secret address in the city center. Although, after reading this article, it might be slightly less secret.

The Luminares Hotel & Spa It is located in an 18th-century palace in Bairro Alto, directly opposite the Ascensor da Glória, the funicular that hoists you up the hill. The exterior has been preserved in its historic state, while inside you sleep in modern suites and apartments. The hotel is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. There is a spa on the ground floor, which is certainly not an unnecessary luxury in Bairro Alto: during the day, this district is a labyrinth of steep streets, and at night, it is the nightlife heart of Lisbon. Lumi Rooftop awaits on the roof, offering views over the city. Anyone wanting to experience Lisbon with the door to the spa and the door to the pub both just a few minutes away will find exactly what they are looking for at The Lumiares.

Bairro Alto Hotel is the classic of this list. The hotel is located on Praça Luís de Camões, right on the border of Chiado and Bairro Alto, so your location doesn't get any better than this. Pritzker Prize winner Eduardo Souto de Moura led the renovation, so the building itself is an architectural tour. With 87 rooms, it is considerably larger than the boutique addresses above, but it remains a hotel with character. There is a rooftop restaurant with a view of the river for a dinner where the decor is free. Bairro Alto Hotel is ideal if you want to do your city trip without having to take a tram even once: everything is within walking distance.

Verride Santa Catarina Palace is a restored palace in the Pombaline style, right next to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. So you don't have to look far for the view, and the hotel has gone the extra mile: the rooftop overlooks the river. Inside, the original tiles have been preserved, and with 18 rooms, it remains nice and compact. Wallpaper magazine names Verride Palácio Santa Catarina among the best hotels in the city. For us, it is the palace of this list for those who like to sleep between Chiado and the water: you can walk straight down to Cais do Sodré. First a sundowner On the roof, only then out for dinner. Perfection.

The Verse is an aparthotel on Rua de São Bento, a street full of antique shops and galleries. Architect Carrilho da Graça restored the stately building, and Studio Astolfi designed the interior. You sleep in one of the 15 apartments with a private kitchen, but you don't have to cook: a breakfast box is delivered to your door in the morning. The bathrooms feature hand-painted tiles and there is a stack of books by Portuguese authors in your room, so you can leave your own reading material at home. Downstairs, there is a bar for a nightcap without having to put your coat back on. The Verse feels more like a friend with good taste’s apartment than a hotel, and that is exactly what we are looking for. The Estrela neighborhood does the rest, with a dining scene that could easily keep you going for a week.