Tour of Southern Thailand: and not where the crowd goes
There were many people who visited Thailand some time ago too cool for them found, it is now back on the agenda of many travelers. Not surprising, because Thailand is so diverse. Take the unknown south, for example, where everything feels just a bit more relaxed, greener and tastier. Coconuts straight from the tree, wooden beach houses or a luxury hotel, and smells of lemongrass and grilled fish on every street corner.
Forget the well-trodden path of backpackers and Instagram spots. There’s a side to Southern Thailand that most tourists never see (which is exactly why you should go). This route along the Gulf of Thailand takes you to places where fishermen still fish, where artisans still work with their hands, and where you can spot pink dolphins without fifty other boats moored next to you. Here are our tips for a tour of Southern Thailand that’s not where the crowds go.
When: The best time to travel is on paper from November to March: dry and not too hot. But actually most months are fine. In any case, don't trust the rain apps, it is often a few heavy showers, and the rest of the day it is just nice weather.
How: EVA Air flies three times a week direct from Amsterdam to Bangkok (and vice versa) and that is great! Good seats, nice service and many meals (with normal cutlery and good snacks) included.
Transport: Rent a car with driver for the entire route, or take local transport per stage (easy to book via GetYourGuide). On the route: taxis are cheap, buses are an experience, long tail boats are indispensable.
Chances are you'll start in Bangkok. At least, if you want to make it easy for yourself, you will. EVA Air flies directly from Amsterdam to Bangkok, and then you have a very chill flight and you can go to the Old Town. Once you arrive in Bangkok, it is equally important that you sleep in the right neighborhood, you don't want to start your trip in the busy tourist area.
agree? Then check in at The Raweekanlaya, an authentic 20th century Thai hotel that immediately gives you the feeling that you are arriving quietly. No shiny hotel lobby, but rooms that are spread over several wooden buildings, it feels like you are stepping into the jungle. Oh, and with a swimming pool!
Take some time to recover from your flight. There is a good chance that you are suffering from jet lag, culture shock and more of that kind of discomfort. Therefore one tip for the day of arrival: let yourself be massaged by the people of the Chetawan Health Center, because they know the tricks of the trade here. A Thai massage is an experience in itself: you lie here in a shared space, without oil, and are placed in all kinds of crazy positions. They provide the loose clothing. But that way you are immediately completely in the Thai atmosphere.
So, with a relaxed body or slight aches from everything that was loosened during the massage, you have arrived in Bangkok. On y goes: stroll through the old quarters or take your rest. The next day you can visit the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, the temple of the reclining Buddha and one of Bangkok's most visited sights. Impressive, gigantic and very golden. The best thing is to visit it with a tuk-tuk and then immediately make a trip through the city (book here).
The day after: the floating markets early in the morning, followed by a cooking course where you really learn to cook. Because yes, you want to be able to make that Pad Thai, Tom Yum, Gaeng Keow Wan and Mango Sticky Rice at home! You only visit the Chatuchak Weekend Market if you like chaos, otherwise you skip it.
Still an evening to spare? Or no, better yet: free up an evening for dinner at one of the establishments along the Chao Phraya. Rooftop bars are fun, but equally fun places are located on the water. Eat Sight Restaurant is such a lovely place.
In Bangkok you can entertain yourself for a long time, but there is more to see. From Bangkok you fly to Trang (book your flight in advance with Air Asia) and drive on to Phatthalung. Phatthalung is one of the lesser known provinces in the south of Thailand, but that makes it all the more fun. Be warned, because you will have to make a lot of photo stops. Yes, of the surroundings, but also because the locals are only too happy to take your picture. Before you check in at your hotel, Bao Wee restaurant a very nice stop. You won't get more local, and a better view over the rice fields most likely.
Check in at Sri Pakpra Boutique Resort at the famous Thale Noi lake. Here you will find rooms with a view of the water where fishermen still fish. You can easily spend a week here without getting bored. From the resort you can explore the Thale Noi Game Reserve in different ways. First by boat (you do this in the morning and can be booked from the hotel) between the lotus flowers. If you take the early morning trip at sunrise, you will see fishing towers sticking out of the water, lotuses in abundance and swimming water buffalos (never seen anything so special!). But just as much fun is to take the bike the next day, you can take the Dutchman out of the Netherlands, but… right. Both activities can be booked through the hotel.
The next day(s) are for doing absolutely nothing. The swimming pool of the Sri Pakpra Boutique Resort is chill and the cocktails (is it already happy hour?) taste like more. Moreover, the resort has two restaurants (with live music) and they have to be played out. Furthermore: do nothing. Read by the lake. Swim. Order what you want.
Also save some time in Phatthalung for driving around the rice fields, stopping at local markets, having lunch where no other tourists come. Ask your hotel or taxi driver for tips, big chance they know the best. A tip is in any case to visit Varni Krajood for a workshop weaving bags and to shop. Here you can still find real local crafts.
Well-rested, you continue your journey in a two-hour taxi ride (train journey also possible) to Nakhon Si Thammarat. And where Phatthalung was green, the province and city of Nakhon Si Thammarat is larger, more historic and more vibrant, with more cultural sights, bigger markets and a wider coastline. The city itself is one of the oldest and most culturally rich cities in the country. But we don't visit the city without a stop at local restaurant Khanom Jeen Muang Nakhon. To be honest, we have no idea what we ate here, but it was definitely good. Lots of vegetables, fresh noodles with crab (not normal these!), different curry pastes and fried chicken for a song.
With a full belly you can roll straight to your accommodation at Laekhon Nonbai in Nakhon Si Thammarat city. A hip hotel with modern rooms that are standard but still nice. In the city you want to take time for the Thai culture. What Phra Mahathat is a temple that was already there when Amsterdam was still a fishing village. Go there early in the morning, when monks are doing their rituals, and later in the day when the light falls differently. Coffeebreak? Hassadin Coffee Roasters is delicious.
There is more to do around the city, and at The Legends Fight Club we did one of the most fun things we experienced on the trip. Here you don't just get an intro to Muay Thai, but the full experience under the guidance of fantastic trainers. Train seriously for a few days. It is tough and it is incredibly fun.
Would you prefer (or also) to take it a bit easier? Ban Nang Thalung Suchart Subsin shows how a traditional Southern Thai puppet theatre works. The entire area, consisting of a few Thai houses, is a collection of just about everything, but you can also see a performance. This can be booked with a guided tour. The stories have been around for centuries and the humour still works, even if you don't understand the language.
Thai food on repeat… Do you want a break? Day & Night is a chic place with good Italian food.
Exhausted from boxing? Well, we have good news for you to chill out. From Nakhon Si Thammarat city, Khanom Bay is a 1,5 to 2 hour drive. And although Khanom Bay is located in Nakhon Si Thammarat province, it is a world apart from the historic city. Khanom Bay is a quiet coastal region on the east coast of southern Thailand with relaxed beach villages, fishing boats, peace, sun and sea.
And you will find there Khanom Beach Resort & Spa. Khanom Beach Resort & Spa is located right on the bay and is the perfect place to stay in Khanom. The massaman curry we tasted here was the best in all of Thailand. Also the spa, the rooms and the pool were a real treat. Just like the beach bar by the way!
It would be great if you could get off that beach bed, but you better do it anyway. Because swimming in the bay pink dolphins. Not a zoo attraction, but wild animals. You can go out with local fishermen in long tailboats. Be careful: dolphins surface when they want, not because you are there. Some days you see ten, other days none. We saw none, but the boat trip was worth it even without dolphins.
Also worth it: kayaking between the mangroves. And Coco Thawatchai, where they make and sell chocolate.
You are in the south of Thailand so you want to chill on an island. Traveling from Khanom Bay to Koh Samui is easy easyBy taxi you can travel to Donsak Pier in maximum 60 minutes and from there take the ferry to Koh Samui, which takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes depending on the company (Seatran or Raja Ferry are the most used).
Khanom is small-scale, authentic and quiet: there are few large resorts and you will mainly find small-scale accommodations. Koh Samui has a bit more hustle and bustle, but the island actually has just about everything. Jungle and private islands and it is bursting with special addresses. There is a good chance that you will stick around on Samui. Especially now that the island serves as the backdrop for White lotus season 3, the hotel game is in full swing.
Life Samui is a bit quieter and is not between the party resorts. Maybe not the most picture perfect hotel, but a very nice one.
From this island you can hop straight on to Koh Phangan and Koh Tao. Spend a day island hopping to the smaller islands around them. Koh Tao and Koh Phangan have places where you are still alone. Ask your hotel to arrange a private boat - not much more than the organized tours, but you set the pace.
A day of no planning. Riding around on a scooter, stopping where it's beautiful, eating where it smells good. Koh Samui is fantastic for that (and stop at The Cocoon for the tastiest lunch and the most beautiful view).
To watch the grand finale travel back to Bangkok. From Koh Samui you fly there. Maybe there are still a lot of things on the wish list that you want to check off or that you still want to eat. Suggestions? Phew, enough - but definitely Pad Kra Pao: spicy minced meat (often chicken or pork), fried with basil, garlic, chili and a fried egg on top. And Tom Yum Goong, a sour and spicy soup with shrimp, lemongrass and lime leaf. Also Som Tam, papaya salad. And not to forget: Mango Sticky Rice.
You close Bangkok with a banger in the Lebua at State Tower. Although you can also just go there for a bite or a drink. You will find two Michelin star restaurants and the sky bar that you may know from The Hangover II.
You also come here just for the experience. Another top restaurant in Bangkok is Ruen Urai. Here you will find fine dining at its best. Make a reservation. Or go for a last meal on the street. And who knows, you might end up on Khaosan Road…
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