Tips for your tour through Peru: from Lima to the Amazon
There are many, many countries that claim to offer everything. Often, these are empty words: "a country of extremes" or "a jack of all trades" sounds nice in brochures, but rarely says anything concrete. Peru Can you take those clichés seriously? Because Peru got it allThe country is a whopping 30 times larger than the Netherlands. It boasts desert plains, snow-capped peaks, culinary cities, jungle, and a rugged coastline, making it one of the most biodiverse countries in the world. Let's go to the Inca Empire!
So we did Lima on, the culinary capital of South America. And the vast, golden dunes of Paracas. But also the Amazon in Madre de Dios (highlight!).
Choices, choices, choices… Peru is a country you can easily spend months exploring, there's so much to see and do. Want to truly explore everything? Then a few weeks is simply not enough time. But with this itinerary, you'll get a stunning overview of the country in a relatively short time, from the coast to the jungle and the Andes. Keep in mind that the distances are vast, and you'll need a considerable amount of travel time between destinations.
Route: Lima – Paracas – Ica – Madre de Dios – Cusco – Lima. This route showcases Peru's enormous diversity. Best time to travel: May to October (dry season). Transport: domestic flights and private transfers
"Lima is fine, but you don't really need to stay long," was the advice we often received when we mentioned heading to Peru. At the same time, there are world-famous restaurants (Central or Astrid y Gastón, just to name-drop). Yes, Lima has fantastic food, but Lima is definitely worth exploring for a while. There are beautiful hotels, wine bars, history, and a vibrant creativity scene. You won't hear us say you don't need to stay long, and with these tips, you'll be right.
A tour of Peru almost always begins (and ends) in Lima. We found world-class fine dining, from the refined Rafael to the award-winning Mayta. We were well-advised to stay in the Miraflores district or the creative Barranco, the bohemian heart of Lima where street art, architecture, and nightlife truly shine. Our best night's sleep was in the artistic Hotel BWrap up warm, because you'll need that sleep after visiting cocktail bars like Lady Bee, Ayahuasca, and Carnaval. They're among the best in the world.
And we haven't even mentioned all the art tips yet. That's why you'll want to spend at least a few days there. You will find all the tips in this article.
After Lima, the journey descends into silence. We found it quite a shift after bustling Lima, but all the more enjoyable. We drove four hours south towards Paracas, where the city quickly transformed into a dry desert landscape with the sea on the other side. It was fascinating, and we were amazed.
Book a nice stay like Atoq Paracas Reserva or the larger-scale La Hacienda Bahia Paracas, because you'll need a nice place to relax after all the sights you'll see in the coming days. There's so much to do here, and you'll want it all. Starting with Paracas National Reserve By far one of Peru's most unique natural areas. Here, you'll see desert and ocean, creating a stunning backdrop. Spectacular sand dunes and rock formations, coastlines and bays are all part of the protected ecosystems that provide a haven for dozens of bird species and other fauna. The park has an entrance ticket, which you can purchase at the main entrance. Plan to spend a day exploring.
But there is more to do. For example, on another you can go to the Ballestas Islands, also known as "the little Galapagos of Peru," with sea lions, pelicans, and penguins as a backdrop. Then enjoy a delicious lunch by the water at Chalana, where the fish roll right out of the sea.
In the afternoons, a 4x4 adventure into the dunes awaited us. Speeding along in a car, with plenty of "aaaah" and "owneeee" as we drove up the gigantic sand dunes. But it was for a good cause, because a dinner awaited us in the middle of the dunes under a starry sky: a luxurious picnic with local products among the sand dunes, organized by Adrenarena.
And then there's the fantastic Ica, the wine and pisco region of Peru. And then you get a pisco sour for breakfast, you won't hear us complaining. Here you can taste in the oldest distillery in the country, The Caravedo, how the national drink is made. Lunch at the eponymous restaurant is especially delicious with a view of the vineyards.
And forget the flight over the Nazca lines not the ones that depart from here: an (although a bit nauseating, so make sure you take your travel pill) experience where you see mysterious drawings carved into the desert ground thousands of years ago from an airplane! Cool
Peru doesn't do things halfway. Desert, sea, mountains, and culture all in one country. And yet, the jungle is the side of Peru that rarely makes it onto postcards, but it truly completes the country. "Stay on the path, in a straight line, and don't touch any plants or trees," our guide, Almendra, warns clearly as we walk along a wooden walkway toward the hotel. It's lunchtime, and we've just disembarked from a motorboat that has taken us from the port of Puerto Maldonado, the gateway to Peru's Amazon, deeper into the jungle.
A few days earlier, we were in the Paracas Desert, south of Lima, one of the driest places on earth. Then we flew from the capital to Puerto Maldonado, in the southeast of the country. The flight lasted an hour and a half, and from the air, we saw what covers almost sixty percent of Peru: the Amazon. Endless green canopy, meandering rivers, and here and there a glimpse of a village or sandbar. Upon arrival at the small airport, the doors opened: humid, sultry, but pleasantly warm. Lima was chilly, so this felt welcome. Now. Ahead of us walked a steward with a JBL speaker on his shoulder; local music blared across the tarmac as he danced his way into the terminal. #islandlife, but surrounded by greenery.
There, Almendra awaits us: our ranger and guardian angel for the coming days. She's 24, lives with other guides at the lodge where we're also staying, and knows every plant, bird, and snake by name. "And the more you keep your eyes open, the more you'll see and learn," she continues. After a short drive through the village, we transfer to a wooden motorboat that takes us along the Madre de Dios River to our accommodation: Inkaterra Hacienda Concepción. The boat ride takes about 45 minutes, and along the way, we see blue butterflies as big as palms, fish jumping out of the water, and several species of kingfishers.
The lodge is built on the grounds of a former cocoa and rubber plantation, once known in the 1950s as “Fundo Concepción,” an Amazonian Catholic medical mission center. It is nestled in a wild and serene, lush setting within 819 hectares of natural rainforest. This rainforest serves as a buffer zone between Tambopata National Park and the banks of the vast Madre de Dios River—meaning remoteness. Inkaterra is no ordinary lodge; it's one of Peru's first eco-hotels and has since become a benchmark in sustainable tourism. There are 25 cabañas perched on stilts amidst the foliage, scattered throughout the property, and a casa grande with five rooms featuring high ceilings and a rustic thatched roof. Open mesh windows allow light, air, and the sounds of the jungle to flow freely. Instead of walls, there are mosquito nets, and when the sun sets, candles replace the electricity. Wi-Fi and power are only available for a few hours per day, and that's precisely the intention.
To be fair, we have Cusco Skipped (time issue). But we understand you're not. After the silence of the jungle and desert, it's time for a bit of excitement. Most travelers take a domestic flight from Puerto Maldonado to Cusco.
Cusco is full of unique places to stay, but these four hotels stand head and shoulders above the rest in our opinion. The balcony is for those looking for a charming place. Homely with a hospitable team and a delicious breakfast every morning. A bit more luxurious, but still intimate, is Antigua Casona San Blas. For those who really want to do it right, there's Inkaterra La Casona (the same as the hotel above).
Cusco It's full of color, sound, and history. This ancient Inca capital, at an altitude of over 3.400 meters, boasts narrow streets, markets brimming with fresh cacao, quinoa, and local art, and the ever-present aroma of roasted corn and coca tea. Plaza de Armas is the beating heart of the city, surrounded by terraces and cathedrals. San Blas the creative district with studios, craft shops and viewpoints. Sacsayhuaman are impressive Inca ruins just above the city. Of course, the sacred valley not missing.
And then the Machu Picchu, the highlight of many Peru trips. And if we may give you a tip, that is exactly what Alpaca Expeditions does with their Women Only Trek Through the Andes. This unique trek, designed by and for women, takes you through the Sacred Valley, the spectacular Salkantay Pass, and of course, that iconic highlight: Machu Picchu. The concept is simple yet powerful: small groups of female travelers journey into the mountains together, accompanied by an all-female team, from guides to porters. And that's still a rarity in Peru. The goal? To empower women, literally and figuratively, by experiencing something great together.
You'll visit a weaving community in the Sacred Valley, learn to make Peruvian dishes with women who run their own cooking collective, and sample coffee and wine lovingly produced by women's cooperatives. During the day, you'll hike past lakes, through valleys, and over mountain passes; in the evening, you'll arrive at a camp or glamping site where the food is surprisingly good. You don't have to be a seasoned mountain goat, but a reasonable level of fitness is helpful—it's the Andes, after all. The moment you reach Machu Picchu with your group, feeling like you've hiked the entire trail yourself, is priceless.
More information can be found via Alpaca Expeditions.
Circle complete, back to Lima for another evening in a really good restaurant.