Baden-Württemberg, then. Where you are and think: why haven't we been here before? Southern Germany at its best: rolling vineyards, cozy cities full of cozy squares, spas that smell of eucalyptus and peace, and forests where you want to picnic. No rush, no airport stress, just take the train or car to get that holiday feeling.

Stuttgart is for its museums, architecture and wine bars with a view. Baden-Baden is a touch decadent in the best way: bathing in a marble palace and then cake on a sun-drenched terrace. And Freiburg? There you cycle from market to winery and end up on a terrace with Flammkuchen and a glass of the best Spätburgunder. Add to that the short travel time and you get: this is the kind of destination you want to return to every season.

We ate at Schellenturm Stuttgart for most of our holiday. Partly because the portions are gigantic (but hey, where aren't they here?), but mainly because it was so delicious. Schellenturm Stuttgart is an impressive tower from the 16th century, once part of the old city wall. It served as a defense post, storage space and was on the verge of disappearing in the 40s, when it was badly damaged and put on the demolition list. Fortunately, a number of concerned residents kept the monument alive and in 1980 the tower was transformed into a beloved place for everyone who loves traditional Swabian cuisine.

For many years, Rudolf Reutter was in the kitchen, a passionate chef who made the restaurant a household name. He passed away suddenly in 2020. Since the end of 2022, Schellenturm has been breathing new life again, under the leadership of Michael Pernesch and Florian Kranich. With respect for the historical character and a good dose of love for good food, the tower has been carefully restored. The authentic charm has been preserved, but with a fresh, inviting atmosphere that invites you to long evenings of dining. Once again, they remain true to the Swabian tradition, with fresh, regional ingredients and a wine list that is an ode to Württemberg. Good meat and a juicy schnitzel, marinated in mustard and covered in a pretzel crust.

The interior was also updated, with a cozy bar upon entering to taste the first wine or cocktail. The different floors each have their own intimate atmosphere. But the garden remains the best. Note: book on time.

Bell Tower Stuttgart

Stuttgart, you are beautiful – the Cube restaurant proves that from the air. A place you simply have to visit when you are in Stuttgart. Situated in that striking glass cube on top of the Kunstmuseum, you look out over the green Schlosspark and the city skyline. The interior? Sleek, light and modern, with glass on all sides. Perhaps a bit too sleek, but the good food compensates.

Cube’s cuisine blends German regional produce with global influences, with a fresh nod to the flavors of the Pacific Rim. Expect creative dishes like New Zealand beef fillet with white asparagus, potato, and Thai hollandaise, and Pom Pom mushroom with baby spinach, lime, and beurre blanc.

You can enjoy a good lunch among business people, and in the evening the party simply continues.

Cube Restaurant

All that wine makes you hungry. From the Museum of Viniculture there is a beautiful walk to Rottenberger Weingärtle. Thanks in part to this restaurant, we say ciao to Italy and hello to… Southern Germany? Yes, indeed. Because anyone who thinks that you have to cross the Alps for rolling vineyards, sunny hills and a good glass of wine has not yet heard of Swabian Tuscany. In the middle of Baden-Württemberg, and therefore closer than you think, you will find this surprisingly Mediterranean region full of warmth, regional products and charming gastronomy.

And that is exactly what the slogan “WIR. VON HIER.” of this restaurant stands for: local, loving and delicious. On the Rotenberg, one of the most beautiful wine hills in the region, you will be welcomed with open arms and a well-filled glass with a twist on the Aperol Spritz (something with rose water). Everything here revolves around the power of the region: fresh dishes made with products from local suppliers, wines from around the corner, and all that with a touch of Swabian cosiness.
On the menu? Fresh lunch dishes and changing seasonal specials (check the chalkboards!). It was asparagus season for us, guess what we had. Phew, and Kaiserschmarrn for dessert.

Rottenberg Wineries

Is there a four in the clock yet? Well, in Stuttgart that's not even necessary. And we already knew that Germany is more than beer and bratwurst. But what we didn't know before we went here is that the sparkling bubbles here can compete with the best Champagnes. Who? What? Where? KESSLER: Germany's oldest sparkling wine house, founded almost 200 years ago in the picturesque Esslingen am Neckar, and still alive and kicking.

Everything starts with the right wine: carefully selected from the best German and European vineyards. Only the grapes with character, balance and finesse make it through the strict selection of their oenologists. And then: patience. Because the best cuvées mature for up to three years in centuries-old cellars, where some bottles are still turned by hand (!). As founder Georg Christian von Kessler once took it from Champagne: everything according to the traditional method. Think: fine bubbles, deep flavor, and above all: dry. Brut or extra brut, no sweet stuff, but wine that stands like a house.

And in the Sekt Bar in Stuttgart you can sit on the terrace with one of those best bubbles.

Are there any trendy coffee shops in the toko? Yes. What started as a summer pop-up ended up as a regular fixture on the always lively Marienplatz. Condesa Café & Bar is one of those places you discover by accident and never forget. During the day, locals come here for good coffee, homemade cake, breakfast or something savory. In the evening, the café becomes a bar with classic cocktails, homemade bottled drinks (yes hello, Negroni to go!) and their signature Marienplatzschorle.

And then that terrace… sun-drenched, cozy, a bit of a Berlin vibe, but Swabian style.

Condesa