Restaurant Wils is located in MOVE, the former Citroën building on Stadionplein in Amsterdam South. The place itself is special: modern, spacious, and with a beautiful view over a quiet part of Amsterdam, while herbs and plants grow on the roof, finding their way to the open kitchen. Inside, it feels surprisingly warm. The sleek decor complements the impressive wood-burning stove and the almost nostalgic feel of the kitchen beautifully.

For the pyromaniacs among us who are also chefs, this is the ultimate workplace: here, everything revolves around fire, smoke, and the flavor created when ingredients are cooked directly over the wood. Even the bread doesn't come out of just any ordinary oven: it is baked in a wood-fired baker's oven.

The wood-burning stove on which the rest of the dishes are prepared is a grand version of the stew Joris used to learn to cook on at home. And although things were likely far less professional in the Bijdendijks' kitchen, the cozy kitchen atmosphere is certainly present at Wils. It really does something to you to witness that activity and passion in the kitchen.

We sat at the bar, right in the middle of the action, and would definitely recommend it. From here, you see everything happening: chefs plating every dish with utmost precision, the heat being constantly adjusted, and the dynamics of a kitchen. It is better than theater. Prefer a quieter dining experience? Inside, there are also tables away from the hustle and bustle, but with a beautiful view of the kitchen life.

We let the chefs surprise us completely with the menu and were thoroughly spoiled. It started light and fresh with a yellow gazpacho and slowly built up to dishes with more depth: an oyster with poured bone marrow fat (sounds more exciting than it is and tastes a hundred times better than it sounds), smoked trout, and a powerful broth of roasted vegetables. The absolute highlight is the cuttlefish with pointed cabbage, gochujang, and guanciale – Wils’ signature dish, for which superlatives actually fall short. We finished with a lobster tail in jus, and a dessert of raspberry, black sesame, and seaweed. Add to that the homemade bread from the baker's oven, the kombucha upon arrival, the good wines, and a team that knows exactly how to make an evening special (and) cozy, and the picture is complete.