Best of: The Dordogne, according to the experts at Petite Vallée
Who to the French Dordogne whoever travels, actually has only one really good choice for the night: the beautiful and charming Petite Vallee from the Dutch Hans and Yasmin.
Petite Vallee It consists of two charming stone houses scattered across the grounds, nestled in the French countryside. It is a real treat for the true adventurer, as you can also spend the night in one of the three safari tents while gazing at the starry sky. And let's not forget: there are also two amazing boutique camping spots to be found. How about lounging by the pool, taking a walk in the woods, or enjoying local and organic dishes?
Twice a week, produce is harvested from our own garden – which then ends up directly on the menu. Read all about it here Small Valley.
So yeah, Petite Vallee – but what are we doing in the neighborhood? We asked Yasmin... With this as the result. Best of-list from the heart. Barts Best of the Dordogne.
The Dordogne is one of the five longest rivers in France, and also one of the most picturesque places in the country. Few regions encapsulate France’s attractions better than the Dordogne: its delicious cuisine, impressive history, castle-studded countryside and picturesque villages.
To the French, the Dordogne is known as the Périgord and is divided into four colour areas:
-
Purple Perigord (purple) for the wine-growing areas around Bergerac
-
Perigord Blanc (white) for the limestone hills surrounding the capital Périgueux
-
Perigord Vert (green) for the wooded areas in the north
-
and of course the most beautiful of them all: the Périgord Noir (black), for the dark oak forests around the Vézère Valley and Sarlat-la-Canéda
This is where Petite Vallée is located.
You can feast on the offerings of the many lively markets all summer long. Each village has its own market, and you can find one on any day of the week. Our top tips are:
Tuesday – The Bugue
Thursday – Monpazier
Saturday – Belvès / Périgueux / Sarlat
Sunday – Saint-Cyprien
The weekly markets are always morning only and last until twelve, at most one hour. Make sure you get there really early – it can get quite busy.
De Night market (as the name suggests) takes place in the evening, and usually only in July and August. They start around seven and go on until about eleven.
What we love about the Dordogne is that it feels like time has stood still. Everything looks gentle and almost fairytale-like, with castles around every corner. The rivers meander peacefully through the landscape, and you find little beaches everywhere – perfect for a refreshing dip. Yasmin, Petite Valée
Long tables are set up with chairs or benches, and around them you will find the stalls of the market traders. But this time they are extra equipped: with hotplates, barbecues, deep fryers and chopping and cutting tools. You can buy all kinds of delicacies there.
The owner of the café sets up a beer stall outside, the winegrower pours his entire range – by the glass or by the bottle – and the baker is often there with fresh bread, pancakes and waffles. And so on! In short, you can find anything you can think of here – and all for very reasonable prices.
Find a spot, bring your own plates and cutlery, choose something tasty and pay for it on the spot. Don't forget to stop by the winegrower for a nice bottle to toast with.
With a bit of luck, you will be treated to a local band later in the evening and the dance floor will start dancing.
Our top tips for Marchés Nocturnes:
Tuesday – The Bugue
Wednesday – Belvès
Thursday – Saint-Cyprien
Saturday – Audrix
About Petite Vallée – The beginning of a new adventure…
Hans, Yasmin, Faas & Bowie – a young family from Amsterdam. In 2018 they decided to quit their marketing and management jobs; working behind a computer screen all day and without real inspiration was not the dream they wanted to pursue. They chose a new life and travelled from Canada to Panama in a small campervan in a year and a half.
A great experience – but sometimes confronting. Especially the enormous impact of our current food system on nature and the incredible biodiversity touched them deeply. They decided to return to Europe, to put their ideas in order and to find the perfect place for their new plan.
That summer they lost their hearts in the Dordogne. The varied landscapes, the deep-rooted food culture, the joy of living…In love, then.
The nicest spot, if you ask us, is Le Trait d'Union. No-nonsense good food, delicious beers from their own brewery, and a laid-back atmosphere. We can often be found here, especially on Sundays in the high season, when there is a food truck market with live music. Perfect for the kids too. Yasmin, Petite Valée
Whether you prefer to laze by the pool, play with the chickens, go for a walk in the woods, enjoy some delicious food, burn off energy in the playground, lend a hand in the permaculture garden, do a yoga session, play a game of bowlingplaying, admiring the Milky Way at night or simply reading a book in the shade of an oak tree – at Petite Vallée there is something for everyone.
If you do feel like going out, there is plenty to see and do within a 30-minute drive!
Whether you buy it from a market stall or have it served in one of the many great restaurants or bistros, the food here is a feast for the taste buds. Think local specialities such as truffles, Bergerac wines, strawberries, walnuts, goat cheese and porcini mushrooms.
There are countless fantastic restaurants near Petite Vallée. From simple French bistros to Michelin starred establishments. Below we share a few of our favourites.
Please check the opening hours in advance, as they can vary considerably. Some restaurants are only open from May to October, and many are closed on Mondays. This list is far from complete – we keep discovering new gems ourselves – so don’t let that stop you from going on a discovery tour yourself!
For us, joie de vivre was truly invented in the Dordogne. Everything moves at a nice, relaxed pace here: picturesque villages, lively markets, and lovely outdoor cafes. We enjoy good food, a nice glass of wine, and the sun on our faces, and always feel completely relaxed here. Little joys are all around us here. Yasmin, Petite Valée
In Beynac, you'll find Table de Monrecour, a truly French restaurant, just the way you want it. Dine in a beautiful château with a delicious menu at a surprisingly reasonable price. Wine lovers will also be well catered for here, with a fine wine list. And for children, there is a standard French kids' menu — so no fries or croquettes for a change, just a nice meal together!
Our absolute favorite! Now awarded a Michelin star, which unfortunately makes it a bit more difficult to get a table. But believe us: it is more than worth it. Super good food with a rustic French flair, served in an atmospheric garden in the heart of the charming village of Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère. They also serve natural wine.
Not the cheapest place, but definitely a feast for your taste buds. For kids there is a chill pasta and crayons at the table - also nice.
Photos of: Little Leon
Inspired by nature, fueled by our passion for food and love for sustainable farming, we decided to create Petite Vallée.
A place where nature, people and food come together. Where we can welcome guests and share our lifestyle, passion and love for good and conscious food.
Luncheon on the Grass
low key, but very cozy. self service shop on the Vézère river. Delicious quiches and salads, and chickens happily roaming around. Perfect pit stop during your canoe trip.
Maison Lissajoux
For the very best pastries, croissants and breakfast. Don't worry too much about the grumpy owner - it's really worth it. Thank me later...
Photos: Maison Lissajoux
Corico
For a lovely sultry summer evening. Impressive (natural) wine list, nice service and a nice setting. The food is delicious, much of it comes from the vegetable garden. And there are cute pigs roaming around in the garden.
Cafe Marcel
Relaxed atmosphere and the best burgers and croque monsieurs (with truffle!) in Sarlat.
Beynac Winery
Cozy wine bar with great views of Beynac Castle. Run by friendly Spanish owners. And: next to a playground - so great with kids.
Hyphen
Rustic terrain with a tavern-atmosphere. Often live music, simple but good food with vegetarian options and a nice drinks menu. Children can run around and you have a beautiful view of Château de Castelnaud. On Sundays in high season there is a nice afternoon market with extra music and coziness.
Photos: Beynac Winery
In addition to gîtes and small-scale glamping in a dreamy valley, you can also expect the most amazing food. On Monday evenings, they organize a funky pizza night, where kids get to bake their own pizzas and adults are treated to innovative flavors on a wood-fired sourdough pizza. There is also a very cozy taco night once a week.
To make it truly French, there is a welcome quiche. You can eat there four times a week. The last option is a creative plant based 4-course menu from our own garden or from the garden of organic farmer neighbors, with matching (natural) wines.
TIP: actually only for guests, but you can always send a message via Instagram in time to ask if there is a table available for outsiders…
Lou Toupi
Very nice setting on the grass, under a stretch tent. Good food from a kind of food truck. Only open in the summer.
At Georgette's
Sunday brunch on a nice terrain with nice atmosphere. Often live music and tasty, simple food. Nice with kids!
La Bougeotte
Delicious pizzas, antipasti, natural wine and live music. In a cute village – perfect for a summer evening.
Dr. Robert
Nice little place in Bergerac with delicious dishes and a good wine and beer menu. Casual, but with taste.
Photos: Lou Toupi
Farm L'Apogée
Young winemakers who work three days a week during the summer months summer table organize. Check their Instagram for up-to-date info and to reserve a table. But really: you're in for a treat!
Chai Bordin
Wine shop in Périgueux and Sarlat. We are especially fans of the shop and of Justine (the girl in the shop). The most delicious (natural) wines and great advice.
St. Victor
Small natural wine bar in Sarlat. The best beers and wines in a cozy setting, with small dishes on the menu. From the same owners as Corico. Tip!
The Courtines
Perfect for a simple lunch in the beautiful La Roque-Gageac. Lovely garden, chilled atmosphere and run by a young couple.
Not the specialty of the average Frenchman, but fortunately there are at least two places where you can drink really good coffee. Think: cappuccino with a heart, not with a dollop of whipped cream.
Ecureil Cafe
On a cute little square in the middle of the bastide town of Monpazier.
Oriwa Coffee
In Saint-Cyprien. Quaint coffee shop with young owners and a nice atmosphere.
At Café des Moines Cadouin is the place to be for a delicious cup of coffee. Be sure to linger a little longer, because the pastries are just as divine. And if you stay even longer, the (natural) wines and beers will be brought to the table with just as much ease.
Besides castles, caves and canoeing, there are many other activities in the area that will make many children's hearts beat faster.
Some nice tips near Petite Vallée:
-
Water park Etangs du Bois – Let’s splash!
-
Amusement park Parc Le Bournat – Recommended! Old French theme park with attractions and old crafts.
-
Climbing forest Forest of the Ecureuils – For climbing goats of all ages.
-
Marqueyssac Gardens – Beautiful gardens, but also surprisingly fun for kids: maze, playgrounds, tree houses and rope nets in the trees.
-
Labyrinth of the Hermite – Nice corn maze, easy to follow even if you don’t speak French. With extra games afterwards. Simple, but nice entertainment.
-
Commarque Castle – Like almost every castle, this is also one that children love. With information in Dutch and old-fashioned games in the tower.
-
Wood of Lutins – Tree-top course, fun playground and surprisingly fun for the whole family.
-
Roc de Cazelle – Prehistoric park where children learn through play. Very interesting and fun.
The Petite Vallée area is home to an enchanting mix of beautiful villages that have managed to perfectly preserve the charm of the French countryside. We have listed a few that you really should not miss in our opinion.
All three are within a 30-minute drive of Petite Vallée.
Built on cliffs above the Dordogne River, and not without reason named one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France. With its cream-coloured stone houses and steep, cobbled streets, the village exudes history and charm.
At the top is a castle that was the scene of battles in the Middle Ages. The fortress is one of the best preserved in the region, and the sweeping views over the Dordogne valley make the climb more than worth it.
La Roque-Gageac is largely a row of yellow stone houses, set between the Dordogne River to the front and overhanging cliffs to the rear. It is a dramatic and much-photographed spot – and rightly so.
Thanks to its sunny south-facing position and the shelter of the cliffs, the village has its own microclimate. Palm trees and banana plants grow freely in the tropical garden, which you can admire – together with several troglodyte caves – as you climb up the narrow streets towards the rocks.
Perched high on a cliff, the bastide village of Domme has retained much of its medieval fortifications. An imposing twin-towered gateway leads to the steep main street, lined with stone houses – many with charming balconies and external staircases.
At the top of the hill is the central town square, with an open market hall among a cluster of cozy cafes. Order a coffee cream and enjoy it on a terrace overlooking the Dordogne river. A place where history and views merge effortlessly.
Here the Dordogne and Vézère rivers meet. You can walk all the way up through the pretty, narrow streets and enjoy beautiful views along the way.
Stop for a nice coffee at Rivers. At the very top you will find a garden that you can visit – and just outside is Garden Party, a very nice restaurant with a phenomenal view.
Below, on the riverbank, is The Angel of Salut – a nice terrace for a drink in the late afternoon. Perfect to sit down after your climb up.
A picturesque jumble of honey-coloured buildings, alleys and secret squares makes up the beautiful town of Sarlat-la-Canéda – with some of the best-preserved medieval architecture in the region.
It is slightly larger than most villages in the area, which means: plenty of choice when it comes to food and drink. Start your morning with the best cakes in the region (in our opinion!) at Maison Lissajoux. Not the cheapest, but definitely the best.
For organic and natural wines and good advice, go to Chai Bordin.
Please note: during high season (July & August) we advise against visiting Sarlat on market day (Wednesday and Saturday) – it gets way too crowded.
Pretty village on the Vézère river, with a relaxed atmosphere. Great walks in the forest opposite the bridge, past caves, rock formations, wooden huts and castles. Also a popular stop for those canoeing on the Vézère.
For a rustic but delicious lunch you are in the right place at Luncheon on the Grass – with fresh quiches, salads and chickens happily roaming around your table. Or treat yourself to something special at our absolute favorite: Little Leon.
Also villages such as Le Bugue (15 min), Saint-Cyprien (15 min), Trémolat (27 min), Monpazier (27 min) and Lalinde (28 min) are definitely worth a visit!